SOUTH CHILCOTIN MOUNTAINS BACKPACK TRIP

SEPTEMBER 7 TO 11, 1982

DAY ONE SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 5, 1982

For a number of reasons this year’s trip with Des and Mary is much later than usual but if good weather is encountered the area around Bralorne and the Tyaughton Basin can still be very pleasant and warm even thought it is September.

I drove from Vancouver to Lillooet via the rough unpaved Duffy Lake road in my truck and met Des and Mary in Lillooet who have opted to drive up the Fraser canyon and save some wear and tear on Mary’s car.

After a last minute check for forgotten items we head for Tyaughton Lake and the start of the trail to Taylor Basin.

The weather is very unsettled - so was the task of finding the start of the trail or should I say jeep road that would lead us up into the high country. The high country around Tyaughton Lake has a number of easily accessible basins alternating between meadows and open rangeland - mining claims and mountain peaks. What peaked our interest in this area was a previous visit to the area by Mary and an article by Bob Harris on Taylor Basin - the area has been lobbied for recreation protection from mining and forestry claims - a fight that is still being waged in 1997 as this report is being retyped.

There are a series of basins all interconnected - Cinnibar - Eldorado and Taylor and further to the west Spruce Lake and a number of high relatively easily climbed peaks and ridges. One can do a number of loops in the area or could set up base camps and day trip for a week or two. The downside to all of this is that some of the mining access jeep roads are passable to hardy 4 by 4 ers and hunters. There are also some old cabins on some of the mining claims that can be used as shelter in bad weather.

By now it is afternoon and decision time - do we start up or camp in the valley?

Mary checked for information on trails and campsites at the Hornal’s old Tyaughton Lake resort. As Mary had met the owners previously we were able to camp at the resort and would be able to leave Mary’s car there and proceed to trailhead in my truck.

Dinner was freezed dried chicken stew masterfully prepared by Des.

Notes: 1. We have decided to head up via Taylor Basin and come out via Cinnibar Basin as this trailhead is across the road from the resort.

2. While we were able to camp at the resort, don’t expect the resort operators - now retired to let everyone camp on their property. There is a forest service campsite nearby.

ed. note: This resort is now on the site of the Tyax Mountain resort - so you may be able to camp there or rent as cabin . The resort also actively takes people up into the Taylor, Cinnibar and Eldorado Basins.

DAY TWO SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 6, 1982

Des got us up early - the weather is overcast again and this naturally was of concern to us. By 9:10AM we were ready to start the trek to Taylor Basin after having driven the short distance to the trailhead. Taylor Basin is a four to five hour or six to eight mile trip up a 4wd damaged old mining road.

To be honest we didn’t know what to expect. The road is gentle in spots, muddy and rutty from vehicle use, steeper in places but still not too physically demanding with 45lb packs on our backs. In two hours we have reached the bridge over Taylor Creek and the half way point towards today’s objective - the Taylor Basin area. Continuing under cloudy skies - where is the sun - we met some 4WD types and would see more later.

After two more hours we could see the old cabins of the Lucky Strike mine and we knew we weren’t too far from base camp.

Another half hour of hiking brought us into Taylor Basin with its three old mine cabins, one of which is still useable. We set up our tents and relaxed for a while before we hiked further up the old mine road. While on this ramble we saw more 4WD types, hunters and a couple of younger types firing at nothing in an area where hiking trails are found.

The scenery around us is outstanding despite the garbage dump around the cabins. Even the weather was clearing off - hopefully tomorrow’s romp of the ridges will have favourable skies.

Supper is freeze dried spaghetti plus asparagus soup.

Camp is at elevation 6240’.

We have hiked 6 to 8 miles.

A note about camping in this area - at the time of our trip we were on crown land therefore in the Province of British Columbia we are entitled to set up camp where we want provided the area is not posted. By camping near the cabins we are in an area already distrubed by man so therefore our impact will be minimal.

DAY THREE MONDAY SEPTEMBER 6, 1982

It was one of those disappointing days. We woke to favourable skies and had our sights set on the Taylor, Cinnibar, Eldorado basin loop - a six hour ramble up and over ridges but by the time we had reached Cinnibar Pass some 700’ higher and about fourty minutes from camp it was raining and blowing a fierce gale on the ridges. All around us were grey skies. We found shelter from the wind in a rock pile below the pass. The change in weather caused us to change our plans. Leaving Cinnibar Pass we headed along a faint trail on the ridges which connects Cinnibar Pass to the 6920’ on the Lucky Gem mine road.

Once down from the pass it wasn’t so windy, just overcast with a high enough ceiling to enable us to see the ridge tops.

At an unnamed pass 6920’ we would walk the mine road for about one hour to the mine site - 700’ below the pass. Among the debris left from the mine and other recreational users we stopped for lunch - we were rewarded with views everywhere.

Ahead lies Eldorado Basin - lush green meadows - ridges galore - all easily hiked - I thought what’s a mine doing here anyway. This was to be our turn around point for the day - by now - late afternoon the weather had improved a bit.

I’m feeling cold, tired and only a little hungry as we return to camp and I start to read James Clavell’s novel - the Noble House.

While we didn’t know and hadn’t planned to use the cabin and with no obvious private property signs up, I decided to start the stove and within minutes it was nice and warm. Des and Mary join me before long since it is still blowing and threatening rain.

We would later learn that as a rule if a cabin is put up on unmarked crown land it must be kept unlocked and can be used by anyone passing through the area so something like that.

Supper is chilli with some extra seeds thrown in - almonds and stewed fruit. We spend the evening in the cabin before retiring to our tents around 8:30PM.

We have hiked perhaps 4 to 5 miles today and nobody knows what tomorrow will bring.

DAY FOUR TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 7, 1982

Let’s say neither tent blew down overnight. The weather is the pits. High winds, threatening black clouds, cool. We decide to wait before doing anything today. By noon Des and Mary decide to head for Eldorado Mt. I have decided to stay in camp - read more of my book , rest my cold and enjoy the warmth of the fire in the cabin.

Des and Mary seem to think that they have found the proper start but regardless the route is open and easy to follow up to the ridge below Eldorado Mt.

An hour later I can see Des and Mary nearing the open ridge below the peak. Feeling depressed and ill - probably a combination of too much fresh air or disappointment with the weather - can’t decide whether an aspirin or volka will help the best.

The hikers arrive back around 4PM - with reports of great views - all the way to Riske Creek in the north and Lillooet in the east. However there is cloud cover over all the horizon and the winds continue strong - the trail they started out on petered out but the terrain is open and the route is easy to follow.

Discussion continued over happy hour on the problems of the weather and whether to continue the trip. While we are in no danger, now have the area to ourselves, a warm cabin and a few spirits to help us nothing is more depressing mentally than sitting in a wilderness setting and not being able to enjoy it.

If the weather is favorable we will do the Basin loop- if the weather is bad - its put on the packs and head out.

Supper is sweet and sour pork with rice - pineapple bits - some extra minute rice and hot stewed fruit. We are all enjoying the cabin for warmth.

DAY FIVE WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 8, 1982

The bad weather has enabled me to read about two thirds of the 1200 page book - Noble House by James Clavell. Also our happy hour’s seemed to be enjoyed judging by how little scotch and volka is left.

We sleep in to 8AM - even I get up without being threatened with no breakfast which today consists of Alpen and granola. The weather is overcast and the decision to leave is made.

By 11AM the tents are down, the area cleaned, stove and fire put out and packs put on our backs.

The area is now deserted - no hikers - 4 Wheel Drive vehicles - or deer hunters - for a short time this wilderness will have no intruders.

As usual the trip out seems to take forever but in fact two and one half hours takes us back to the truck.

We pick up Mary’s car, have a beer, change our clothes and chat with the resort owners who provided us with some notes of interest which follow. We head our separate ways - Des and Mary via Duffy Lake - Dennis via Lillooet and Lytton.

AFTER THOUGTHS AND CLOSING NOTES

1.The Taylor Basin area is the property of Bridge Creek United Mines who are re staking the area in 1982. The cabin is available for use of those in the area but it is small and could only sleep three or four at any time - so don’t head off into the area without a tent expecting to find at place to stay. All the owners ask is that you keep the cabin clean and replenish the firewood - there is plenty of deadfall - no need to chop down more fresh trees - remember the area is sub- alpine - trees don’t easily regrow here.

2. This area has been considered for and pushed for by various outdoor interests for park status. If the mining claims were to fall through (unlikely) and with a road leading into Taylor and Cinnibar basin and with logging providing access to near Spruce Lake and Upper Tyaughton River the area would be an easy backpack trip within three to four hours of Vancouver.

In favorable weather one could spend a week roaming peaks and ridges in the Three Basins but a shorter trip of three to four days would be adequate unless you want to add the Spruce Lake loop.

3. As for the road - it is rough, muddy and very rutty for the first hour of hiking. After that it is passable in all but a few places to trucks as well as 4WD’s.

4. At first impression the idea of mining claims, 4WD’s, deer hunters could turn you off but once up on the ridges and away from the old jeep road and the abandoned mine sites the story changes to one of marvel as the views unfold etc.

5. While the weather wasn’t very favorable up on Cinnibar Pass - the brief glimpse down towards Cinnibar Basin and Carpenter Lake ( 5000’ ) below one soons forgets the scars of the mining industry.

Judging by Des and Mary’s trip up Eldorado Peak and their views from the high point - a similiar feeling must have prevailed.

6. On our Lucky Gem mine ramble we savored the views into Eldorado Basin with its little creeklets and green lush meadows surrounded by rolling ridges and gentle summits despite the old mining road scar that leads over a 7200’ pass and down to the Tyaughton River. Across these lush meadows, among the clouds the distant peaks of the Mt Sheba range could be seem - this is another part of the vast South Chilcotin mountain wilderness study area.

Ed note: some of this latter view has receive park status as part of the Chilco Lake Park.

7. Remember if you decide to go into this area after Labor Day that deer hunting season is on and that guns can be deadly.

8. If all of you who visit this area either by foot, horse, mountain bike and enjoy the surroundings would like to see the area given some sort of wilderness or recreation protection then write the Premier or your MLA.

9. Once again our food arrangements were left to Des and once again he succeeded in providing an interesting assortment of Hardee and Mountain House dinners with some ordinary dried foods like rice, chilli seeds etc.

Breakfast usually consists of porridge, granola and alpen - all easy and quick to prepare dihes.

Lunches consist of ry -krisp in place of bread - cheeses - nuts - candies - peanut butter - honey etc. once again easy to carry and usually found in the kitchen.

10. There are no formal marked trail or maintained ones in the area but the country is open and sub-alpine - most routes leading to ridges and peaks are well travelled game trails or old mine access roads.

All in all despite the weather setback it was a good break from the urban jungle and an area that I would like to revisit again in the future