A TRIP AROUND CATHEDRAL PROVINCIAL PARK
( or a funny thing happened on the way to the Haystacks)
This year’s annual respite from the urban jungle was to be a journey to the Chelan Crest trail until Mary tore up her knee cross country skiing in May and has spent the summer in plaster. This caused a reassessment of our plans since we are down to a two man party of Dennis and Des’ who realize that our trip would have to be to a more familiar area.
We decided to return to two areas previously visited by either Des or myself: The Pasayten Wilderness and Cathedral Provincial Park hoping to attempt a circular loop roughly following the Ashnola Road,Ashnola River, Boundary Trail, Remmel Mt, Upper Cathedral Lake, Apex and Schiette Passes then Ewart creek, Haystack Lakes, Quiniscoe Lake and the Centennial trail back to our trail head on the Ashnola River road.
DAY ONE SATURDAY AUGUST 4, 1979
A day when nothing went right!
After reaching trail head at the top of the Ashnola River Road we started up the abandoned road to a river crossing where I promptly proceeded to slip on the rocks and get wet. Oh well I have on shorts and the temperature is at least 30C. Des took longer but got across dry.
Our advanced reports indicated that the road gave way to easy terrain which could be followed to the Boundary Trail but the opposite appears to be true for at the end of the old road the undergrowth was intense and prohibited us from going any further. To make matters worse with the warm weather, being sun weary and no camping spots we are faced with our first crucial decision - setup a makeshift camp or return to our car and take a different route knowing that our plans for a circular loop are in doubt. We decide to return to our car and camp at trail head.
Needless to say - neither of us are in a good mood since our main access point to the Pasayten is gone.
DAY TWO SUNDAY AUGUST 5, 1979
The search starts for the Haystack Lakes
Up early. It is cool so we decide to take the Wall Creek trail to its upper meadows and source. Thank goddess for a dry summer and low rivers as we wade the Ashnola River in running shoes. Now starts the workout - for the trail up Wall Creek is a steady but gradual climb for some eight miles and 4000’ elevation gain. I had first done this trail as part of a week long Centennial Trail backpacking trip from Manning to Cathedral Parks in 1975.
Our revised plans call for us to reach the head waters of Wall creek tonight then cross over the divide into the Ewart Creek drainage and onward to the Haystack Lakes and then back into Cathedral Park and out by the Centennial trail. On looking at the topo maps it looks fairly straight forward but we would face a number of challenges before the week was over.
At the “old stove” campsite past the junction with the Centennial Trail we met a man coming down from Spanish Meadows (US.) who explained to us how to reach the Boundary Trail from this point. If hindsight was possible, it would have been a better trip than some of the days that lay ahead.
The going is slow - the weather is sunny but cool in the shade - we are in the midst of a 30 day dry spell with little relief promised from the 30C temperatures. The trail continues to contour up through bogs, meadows and forest cover for what seems like forever.
While it seems so different from my previous visit the trail generally is in better condition except in the boggy areas where a trail marker or two would be helpful. Despite the lack of trail markings there is little likelihood of getting lost as you are following the creek all the way its source.
We take one rest break and then another.
Finally we reach more open meadows and the views start to abound. A small meadow at 7000’ is ringed by Orthodox Mt to the west - Mt McKeen ( Grimface) and Cathedral Ridge to the east - tomorrow’s object a 7600’ ridge dividing the Wall Creek and Ewart Creek drainages to the south and some 600’ above us.
It looks steeper and more challenging than my previous climb up to Cathedral Ridge from this meadow four years earlier.
Compared to what lies ahead, today’s part of the trip was basically a piece of cake. The real challenge would start tomorrow.
DAY THREE MONDAY AUGUST 6, 1979
We are tested to the max of our strength and stamina.
This turned out to be an unforgettable day which tested our mental and physical stamina.
Awoke around 8AM to frost on the ground. After a breakfast of Alpen and hot chocolate we contemplated the climb up the ridge and discussed the proper route to take. Finally we start up - about 2/3 ths of the way up meet two guys who told us of their climb over Orthodox Mt from the Boundary Trail - it took us two hours to reach the top - we stopped to catch our breath and admire the surrounding scenery - Hozameen and Baker in the far western horizon - Orthodox and Cathedral peak nearby.
After a rest and lunch stop we start down the saddle to the Ewart creek valley for what we thought would be an easy trip to the Haystacks - however our hours of climbing and slogging over deadfall and rocks were taking their physical and mental toll - Des is very tired and I wasn’t feeling any energy myself.
At a small creek while Des rested I went on ahead minus the pack to check out this mess and estimated at least three hours to the lakes taking this route. ( In fact it took another whole day and a different route to get there.) Des tripped and slightly hurt himself so we decided to seek out a campsite in a place with little flat ground and even less water - finally settled for a hilly abode near a small creek,
You should have seen the angle of the tent and the effort that was necessary to sleep without sliding out of the tent. After a good stiff screwdriver for me and scotch for Des we both felt a little better.
We are getting a few thunderheads but they pass without any rainfall. Mosquitoes are busy doing a good job of biting both of us.
Supper is almonds, pea soup with bacon bits and graham crackers for dessert.
Not a very good day. We aren’t lost for we have views across the valley to Schiette Pass on the Boundary trail which only served to remind us that our original plan had been to come down here to Ewart Creek and then up to the Haystacks through the mess we are mired in.
Tomorrow the search for the Haystacks continues.
DAY FOUR TUESDAY AUGUST 7, 1979
The Haystacks are reached at last!
If you have never slept with your head two feet above your legs try it and you will know what is was like on the side of the mountain. We started slogging again through never changing terrain until about noon when on a rest stop at a gully with a creek flowing through it we happened upon the idea that it might make sense to follow the gully up to the ridge top and more open terrain which might lead us to the lakes.
It was a long, hot, slow climb up, up, up but we finally reached a saddle to the left ( west) of the Nipple which we knew was almost directly above the lakes.
After a long lunch break and short nap we completed the climb to the top where we hoped to be able to see the Haystacks or at least easier terrain leading to it. At the top the following view opened up - most of Cathedral Lake Provincial Park - Twin Buttes and Lakeview Mountain - the Boxcar and Cathedral Ridge but still no Haystack Lakes which the map indicated should be to the east and below us.
It is frustrating knowing exactly where you are with all the wide open terrain and having that awful day and a half of unwanted slogging and still not be able to see the Lakes. Continuing around the Nipple we spotted a rock strewn pond and murmured this can’t be Haystack when a minute or two later we spotted a greenish lake and then another one tucked away against the rock face.
It was a most welcomed sight and the end of a lot of frustration. We scrambled down to the main lake and what a jewel it is surrounded by rock faces on one side, an open silver burn meadow on another and in the distance the U.S. Okanogan valley.
The fishing must be good - saw a lot of action but I didn’t bring a fishing road because of the planned U.S. leg of the trip required a separate license.
I understand that the Parks branch are trying to discourage visitor use to the Haystacks - no wonder - at our campsite CSB2236 - visited 1970, 73, 74, 79 is a garbage dump of beer cars etc. - lot’s of horse dung - fresh cut trees - so it figures that Parks wouldn’t want backpackers in the area in case they might create a much smaller mess than the one left behind by some fishermen or horsemen.
Dinner tonight consists of soup - beef noodle variety - spaghetti and meat sauce followed by a cooked fruit mix for dessert.
It has taken us two days of endless strain and fatigue to do some eight miles from the head of Wall creek to reach the Haystack Lakes - it sure has been a learning experience - if we had only stayed high when we reached the top of Wall Creek and traversed through more open terrain we would have easily reached the Haystacks in one day but so much for hindsight. We are sore but safe and in many ways the toughest hiking should be behind us . At least I hope it is.
Tonight the clouds are thickening and the possibility of a shower is real. I guess as I mentioned above that we can be thankful that we arrived safely with nothing more than a few scrapes and sore muscles. My feet will need several inches of moleskin before we start into the heart of Cathedral Lake - Quiniscoe Lake and the multitude that will be camped there.
A brief word on access to the Haystacks -- the route we took to get to the Haystack is not one of the main routes in -- a more direct route is to follow Ewart Creek from a spur road off of the Ashnola River Road or directly from the main camping area of Cathedral Park.
This would partly explain why the area is under threat and why there is such a mess at the lake.
Tomorrow is a well earned rest day.
DAY FIVE WEDNESDAY AUGUST 8, 1979
A welcome respite from our backpacks at Haystack Lakes.
What a splendid day - I did nothing except rest and admire the beauty of the Haystacks. Didn’t have breakfast until 10AM - Des washed some clothes - I shampoo my greasy, itching scalp and absorb the sun - seem to have a touch of a cold or upset stomach but a day off backpacking should help clear it up.
It didn’t rain overnight but it tried -- today is sunny and hot again with frequent wind gusts to keep you cool.
Memo to HARDEE - don’t think much of you pork sausage patties - paper tastes better - the Mountain House scrambled eggs tasted almost real .
As we have lot’s ‘of time on our hands today Des will have plenty of time to cook up one of his delights. A Fletcher stew with just about everything in it except Des’ scotch and that we was drinking .
It had dried scallop potatoes - surprise peas and carrots - surprise vegetable casserole mix - oxtail soup mix - Mountain House beef stew and Mountain House diced beef - great except that the diced beef seemed a little tough at times. During supper thought I heard a rock slide but noticed a couple of guys coming down a slope above us - looked dangerous but they made it.
Tomorrow - the packs go back on and we head for Quiniscoe Lake and the heart of Cathedral Provincial Park.
DAY SIX THURSDAY AUGUST 9, 1979
Quiniscoe Lake and the Park proper.
A great day with very little going wrong considering some of the day was spent route finding.
Arose early - our plan today was to work our way down below Haystack Lakes by avoiding a marshy area until we hit a creek and then scramble up hill until we reach the obvious marked Centennial Trail coming up from Ewart Creek.
With only one minor hitch we make this part okay - the terrain is fairly easy traveling and we are able to pick up a number of horse paths with lead us down to Morning Glory Creek.
The climb up the Centennial Trail is moderate to steep to start and then gentle through a forest and a dry range land type of meadow which afforded views of Haystack Mt., Boxcar and Lakeview as well as views back into the U.S. and then through a long wet meadow respendid in fields of blooming blue lupine - if one can get high from the smell of lupine then I was floating high over cloud nine and had almost forgotten the rotten two days getting into Haystacks - until we reached near the top with views of Twin Buttes - which look better from a distance than up close when we came across cattle grazing.
Here we leave the Centennial trail as it climbs the ridge to 8100’ and cross around the ridge on a level traverse for some time until we reach a flowering meadow with good year round water and the regular trail down to Lakeview Creek - more view came in sight as we rounded the ridge - Red Mt - the Scout Lake area - Quiniscoe Lake and the ridge above these lakes that make up the land forms that make Cathedral such a popular destination. I can now truly say that I have seen all the various views of Cathedral Park from my various trips over the past four years.
Now the boring climb up from Lakeview creek - what a climb so late in the day - pass Pyramid Lake and then onto Quiniscoe and our campsite for the night.
We have traveled 8 to 10 miles by our estimate and it is approaching 4PM as we settle into camp. We have a chat with the Park ranger about our journey of the past few days.
Somehow I don’t feel tired today - I guess the scenery make you forget the long day and by now I am saddle broken as the expression goes.
Supper was - pea soup - chili with diced beef - onion flakes and chili powder added and lemon pudding and puschaios nuts for dessert.
Tomorrow - another day of rest.
DAY SEVEN FRIDAY AUGUST 10, 1979
A day spent exploring Cathedral Lake Park
Where has the time gone - had a great sleep - albeit a little warm in the tent - we are in a cool shady campsite - fine in the afternoon but for the morning its cool. Did nothing until noon. Breakfast - oatmeal with dried fruit and brown sugar - a change from all those morning meals of granola bars and alpen.
Des walked around Quiniscoe and is reading his novel - must be good - haven’t seen him for awhile - head in the direction of the Lodge - off limits to campers - when I spot Des - then decide it is time for some afternoon exercise and head out for Glacier Lake which I haven’t previously visited - the trail up is a steady climb through open dry meadowland until near the lake it becomes wetter.
The first glimpse of the lake is awesome - serene green water shimmering in the afternoon sun with the mountain peaks of Pyramid and Quiniscoe above - the ridges to the south and west with patches of snow high up the talus slopes - a green meadow provides year long water from the snow - to the east is a view across Lakeview Creek towards the mountain peak of the same name and the ridge bringing the trail over Twin Buttes - to the north a gentle grassy ridge separating Glacier and Quiniscoe Lakes and views towards Crater Mt and the Ashnola valley.
As Glacier Lake sits above Quiniscoe I follow an unmaintained path back to the campsite through several more fields of blue lupine.
Supper - a mixture of Shrimp creole - extra rice and shrimp cocktail - all mixed together.
The clouds have thicken and the wind picked up but once again no rain -it is now over a month since any rain has fallen
Tomorrow - the Centennial Trail and out.
DAY EIGHT SATURDAY AUGUST 11, 1979
The end of the trip and some final reflections.
Awoke early - it is clear and cool - the wind has blown away most of the clouds and this would help provide some spectacular views later in the day.
The climb up the ridge between Scout and Red Mt wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be and certainly provided the views - Lakeview, Twin Buttes with Boxcar and the rest of Cathedral ridge on the right - Lake of the Woods, Quiniscoe with Scout Lake on the left and below us - then as we proceeded over the saddle we got views to the south - very clear because of the brisk winds - we can see Hozameem, Rainer, Baker and some of the high peaks in the northwest - perhaps the coast range around Bralorne and closer in Spanish meadows and the Beaver Pass area of the adjacent Pasayten Wilderness.
The trail in very good shape stays high on the flank of Red Mt through some meadows which are in bloom. The trail is so good in fact that we didn’t realize for over an hour that we weren’t on the Centennial trail but rather following a wide cattle trail through some beautiful open meadow range land.
As usual our attempts at getting back on track were anything but successful as we followed another path southward in the hope of joining the proper trail but it wasn’t until we hit a marked year long creek that we knew how far off course our ramblings had taken us - scrambling up hill again and then down through mostly medium growth and fairly steep terrain until we hit the Ashnola Road some two thirds of a mile down stream from Wall Creek. We just waded the river with boots on - pants everything - happy to have finished what probably be our most talked about trip ever. After a few beers in Princeton and dinner in Hope we parted at my place for another year.
FOOTNOTES:
The idea of going right around Cathedral Park is not new and is quite feasible and in fact is probably being done more and more each year. Here is a brief recap of how you might want to attempt this trek.
Day 1 - proceed up Wall Creek to its headwaters/meadows.
Day 2 - Climb the ridge on the saddle at top of Wall Creek - then stay high until you can swing over to the east side of the ridge and follow this all to way to Haystack Mt ( marked 8541” ) and then drop down SE to the Lakes.
Day 3 - follow any of the paths leaving Haystack down to Morning Glory Creek and proceed generally in a north to northeast direction towards Twin Buttes, Lakeview and onwards to Cathedral Lakes. To attempt to outline the trail in detail here might cause even more confusion than already exist but the terrain is quite open and thus shouldn’t pose to many problems as long as you have a topo map of the area.
Day 4 - out via the Centennial Trail - watch for proper trail markings unless you want the downhill scramble that we encountered coming off the ridge.
For what it is worth department.
1. Fishing is great to excellent at Haystack Lakes - seems only fair at Quiniscoe.
2. Water shouldn’t be a problem on ridges and creek as 1979 is one of the driest on record and no shortage were encountered.
3. The lodge at Quiniscoe is considered to be off limits to hikers and campers - please respect their wish.
4. Also stay off of the resort road - use Lakeview Creek trail head
5. The new topo map for Ashnola River ( 1976) has some mistakes and doesn’t show some trails - ie Red, Quiniscoe are too far north - Scout Mt. is missing altogether - it doesn’t show the Centennial trail west portion from Wall Creek.
Thus completes this 1979 let’s get away from the stress and strain of city life adventure.