THE CENTENNIAL TRAIL

MANNING TO CATHEDRAL PARK

SUNDAY AUGUST 31 TO SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 6, 1975

  The idea for this trip was first discussed over a few beers after a day long trek up Mt Frosty in Manning Provincial Park the summer before where the beauty of Manning Park was deeply implanted on Grant, Mike and myself. Throughout the winter months, the plans were organized and information on the new extension of the Centennial trail to Cathedral Lakes Park was sought. At the time little in the way of pertinent information on the trail seemed to be available and it wasn’t until we arrived at Manning that we were able to obtain a fairly accurate description from a previous group who had been kind enough to leave a copy of the approximate route with the Park naturalist.

The first week of September was confirmed as the starting date. Arriving at Manning, we check and rechecked, packed and repacked until we felt everything was ready to go. We climbed into Grant’s jeep for the trip to the trail head some two and one half miles east of the Manning Park Lodge. Grant and Mike has already platooned Mike’s car at the Outward Bound School near our eastern trail head.

DAY ONE SUNDAY AUGUST 31, 1975

The first day called for a 9.1 mile climb up and old fire road to a point approx. 3/4 mile from Monument 83 where a signpost indicates a turn eastward towards the Pasayten River. After forty minutes of hiking we crossed Chuwanteen Creek where we stopped to apply the first of several feet of moleskin to our heels and toes. This was our first indication of how well all three of us had succeeded in breaking in our boots bought in the spring.

It was raining as we continued the gradual ascent of the road to where the trail starts to rise steeply to a small meadow showing the last signs of summer’s flower show. To fit the occasion, the sun came out of hiding from the dark gray clouds as we surveyed the countryside to the west. Leaving the meadow, we climbed moderately until the Mile 9 marker was spotted and shortly we came upon the signpost and tape markings indicating an eastward turn was in order. We had heard that there was a small stream and campsite about fifteen minutes from here. The stream exists but our campsite at elevation 5900 was roughed out on the side of the trail.

We had done the climb in about five hours and were shoulder sore but settled into the task of drying out our wet clothes and preparing supper. Before turning in, we realized that the longer it rained the less likely we were to complete the trip. So over the campfire it was agreed that if the weather remained wet the next day, the trip would be terminated.

DAY TWO MONDAY SEPTEMBER 1, 1995

We awoke to threatening clouds but otherwise dry conditions. Our success at pancakes wasn’t very successful - too much time and messy. From our topo maps it looked like an easy day - an initial climb around the ridge then down to the Pasayten River and our second camp.

We soon found that the route rounded ridge after ridge, deadfall after deadfall instead of taking a shorter and steeper path to the river. Finally the first glimpse and roar of the Pasayten could be seen and heard as we bundled up for another rain shower. As we dropped parallel to the river the weather started to clear off. ( In fact, this was the last rain on the trip.)

Walking along the rich forested trail for half an hour we spotted the cable bridge and knew we were at our day’s end. It had taken us about five hours to do this section and our campsite elevation is 4000’.

DAY THREE TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 2, 1975

The skies are cloudy as we prepare for today’s trip to Peeve Creek. However, we made such good time climbing the fire burn to Monument 87 that we felt Trapper Lake could be reached later in the day.

However, the logging scars and fire burns in the Peeve Creek area were to cause us problems later. It was only one o’clock when we reached the creek and with the devastion of the logging concerns and careless campers we were easily encouraged to continue onwards.

Following the apparent taped trail past Monument 88 for a mile or so we began to have our doubts about the trail as it didn’t correspond with the map we had obtained. We decided to leave our packs and check out the trail which proved to be correct but the wasted energy was to be felt in another hour as we tried to find a good camping spot near water. Finally with two of us not able to continue we camped on the trail at an elevation of 5800” and found some water about one quarter mile ahead. The terrain here is hilly therefore there were few level spots to pitch the tents.

We had learned our lesson on overdoing it as two of us were starting to have signs of fatigue and possibility hypothermia. We had done a lot of walking in seven hours.

The views to this point in the trip had been limited partly by the weather and partly because on this trip you climb up ridges then down to the river valleys.

The remaining part of the trip is more picturesque and where the photography types will shot the most film.

DAY FOUR WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 3, 1975

The first part of the fourth day was monotonous with lots of deadfall and little in the way of scenery but we soon climbed into another creek valley and a summit not far from Trapper Lake. Slowly dropping in elevation we come into a marshy meadow and what looked like the horse pack trail from the Ashnola.

A moment later, Grant spotted the lake through the trees and let out a “hoot” - only to realize that we weren’t the only ones at the lake as there are two people fishing from a raft. We found an excellent campsite at the south end of the lake , elevation 6500’. It had been an easy three hour hike to the Lake.

It should be possible to make it from Pasayten River to Trapper Lake in a long day as we wasted a fair amount of time searching for the right route.

The setting of Trapper Lake is marvelous. A high mountain lake with marshy and flowering meadows, clear deep blue water with the shadow of nearby Flat Top Mountain reflecting against its calm waters. For those with time to spare or going only to the Ashnola, this is an good place to spend a day or two exploring the easily climbed peak of Flat Top Mountain , fishing in Trapper Lake which reports indicates can be good or searching for nearby Border Lake which is accessible from the Peeve Creek trail.

DAY FIVE THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 4,1975

We awoke to several degrees of frost on the ground. The lake was beautiful with its morning mist and nearby Flat-top Mt. was catching the first rays of the sun.

Today we followed Easy Going Creek down a large, relatively flat meadow for a fair distance before the trail made a steep descent to the Ashnola Road.

This trail provides the first glimpse of the high, snow capped peaks which provides a realization that tomorrow we will have to do some good climbing to get up and around those ridges.

We reach the Ashnola Road by early afternoon and start looking for the “bridge” across the Ashnola River. After nearly an hour of looking we realize the information given us was wrong. There is no bridge but a ford of the Ashnola was necessary if you are to follow Wall Creek up to Cathedral Lakes.

It being September, the Ashnola is low and we are able to ford the river with little trouble but at other times of the year this could be as problem.

Ed Note: As this is being retyped there is now a bridge across the Ashnola.

If you are tired, wish to terminate the trip or resupply this would be a good place to position a second car. It could also be used as your exit point from Cathedral park if you don’t want to use the main access road.

We then cross Wall Creek on a precarious log bridge and camp a short distance up the trail at an elevation of 3900”.

It has taken us only four hours of hiking to reach our campsite.

DAY SIX FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 5, 1975

Today dawned sunny and warm and once again a lack of proper map information and tape markings would create havoc with our previous plans but this time it was a mistake that we were thoroughly happy with before the day was out.

Leaving camp, we climbed at a good grade all morning but we didn’t seem to be turning away from Wall Creek for the climb to Scout Lake and Cathedral Park. Shortly, we notice people coming down the trail and their leaders provided us with an accurate description of the trail.

Stay on this trail, follow it through marshes and meadows to the head of Wall Creek as we had already passed the turnoff to Cathedral Park. This we did but more apprehension set in when we didn’t seem to be getting any closer to our destination. So off came the packs for a fifty minute ramble which finally brought us to the mecca that was promised us - Wall Creek meadows - a small, intimate meadow ringed with 8500” peaks and an unusual array of dead wood which provided some unique photography shots.

We retraced our steps, retrieved our packs and returned to set up camp at 7000”. The surroundings are beautiful - a mountain creek at its source in a meadow - Mt McKeen and Cathedral Ridge above us and other unnamed peaks to the south with provide access to the Cathedral Lakes in the U.S. Pasayten Wilderness.

This has been our best six hours on the trail so far.

DAY SEVEN SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 6, 1975

We arose early on the last day because the weather had turned hot and the 1500’ climb up the side of Mt. McKeen would be difficult in hot weather as the ridge is dry and water must be carried. Grant led from the start and reached the summit in an hour while Mike and Dennis were somewhat tardier but the slow pace was welcomed by the views that start to unfold as you climbed and which we would savor when we reached the summit.

A 360 degree panorama opened for us but with these views came a great sense of achievement - seeing where we have come from - and a greater sense of sadness knowing that by nightfall we would be in a soft bed in a Princeton motel room.

Views abound:

- to the west - the peaks of Manning and Flat Top mountain:

- to the south - Mt Baker, Rainer and the rest of the Cascade range.

- to the north - the rolling highland hills of the broad interior plateau.

- to the east and 1500’ below us - the lakes that make up Cathedral Provincial Park - Ladyslipper - Glacier - Pyramid - Lake of the Woods and the picturesque setting of Quiniscoe Lake and its resort which would be our terminating point later in the day.

Continuing along the established park trails on the ridge,we pass well known Giant Cleft, Red Mt, and Smokey the Bear. We are all aware of the views and grateful that Mother Nature has allowed us to share with her our last seven days in the wilderness without any serious injuries or problems as we drop down off of the ridge and reach Quiniscoe Lake and the lodge.

After this final five hours we adjourn to the Lodge for a beer and discussed the trip with the owner, Mr Fleet before taking the jeep ride down the road where Mike managed to flag down a ride back to his car which was parked at the Outward Bound school.

Two hours later we are having our first regular meal in a week and welcomed the soft beds of the Sandman Inn in Princeton.

Some final notes of caution and explanation.

First, anyone attempting to do this trip today ( 1997) should be advised that the cable bridge across the Pasayten River isn’t in place so you may want to start your trek from the top of the Pasayten Forest Service Road - for more information on this start read an article called “ The Pasayten Wilderness - Seeking the Centennial Trail by Murphy Shewchuk in the July/August 1995 edition of BC Outdoors magazine.

Second, I have purposely tried not to give definite mileage figures for this trip since our recorded distances don’t jive with the more up to date Park Branch figures. Anyway, knowing how many hours you will be on the trail may be more important that the number of miles actually hiked.

Third , as indicated anyone attempting this trip nowadays shouldn’t be faced with many of the uncertainties that we faced with regards to route markings and trail junctions.

Finally, I would not recommend this trip for novices or large groups as many of the camping spots are small and have room for one or two tents only.

On the pages that follow you will find a more detailed outline of the route that was taken along with equipment and food lists.

ENJOY!