Y HIKING CLUB BACKPACKING TRIP: PASAYTEN WILDERNESS A TRIP THROUGH THE HORSESHOE BASIN IRON GATE TO UPPER CATHEDRAL LAKES JULY 24 TO AUGUST 1, 1976 INTRODUCTION: If you are looking for an inexpensive holiday why not try a week’s trip into the wilderness? For those who have done some previous backpacking their are several areas in the southwestern B.C. or Northwestern Washington state that could be done with relative ease but before I retrace our journey through the Pasayten Wilderness here are some important tips to remember. 1. Plan far enough ahead that all members of the group can get the necessary holiday time. 2. Select those you will be travelling with carefully. Nothing spoils a trip as dissension among the group, usually over minor spats. 3. Carefully research your area and plan for an alternate location in case weather etc create problems with your original choice. Pick an area you feel confident that every member of the group can complete. 4. Start equipment lists early. Everybody will want this and that so time is necessary to refine lists so that packs aren’t heavier than can be reasonably carried. No more than 25% of body weight is recommended. 5. Meal planning is very important. Use your imagination. Get the gourmet cook in the group to plan the meals. Don’t forget each other’s likes and dislikes. Experiment with recipes before the trip. Don’t risk unhappy stomachs on the trip. 6. Get yourself into good physical shape. This will prove to be a very important asset when the going gets tough. 7. Appoint a leader. One who has the most respect and can handle the problems that always crop up when any group lives in confined quarters for any period of time. 8. Insist on three or four persons in a group. In case of an emergency, this many persons will be necessary for the safety and comfort of all concerned. So, now you are ready to take to the woods or have you forgotten anything. Did you get your wilderness permits - U.S. and Rockies? Did you notify a relative or friend of your trip schedule and leave word with the local police or forest rangers? Is your car in good mechanical shape for that rough mountain road to get you the final few miles to trailhead? THE TRIP THROUGH THE HORSESHOE BASIN DAY ONE: GETTING TO TRAILHEAD This is the story of four people - Des, Mary, Dennis and Eve’s week long backpack trip in the Pasayten Wilderness - a protected part of the Okanagon National Forest in Washington State. It is a spectacular round trip of some forty five miles from the Iron Gate Camp to Upper Cathedral Lake through mountain meadows, scenic passes and wilderness lakes and tarns. It provided relief from the urban environment that each of us lives and works in each day. Our starting point for the trip is Vancouver and our route takes us over the Hope Princeton Highway through Keromeos and Ritcher Pass to the Nighthawk Customs Crossing. (This customs crossing is open limited hours - if not open - drive through to Osoyoos and then follow signs to Loomis.) (It is now possible to drive through the United States over the North Cascades highway to reach trailhead.) From Nighthawk follow the road to the town of Loomis, look for the Chopaka Lake - Toats Coulee Road then onto the North Fork Campground - Iron Gate and Horseshoe Basin Road, some twenty three miles from Loomis. Climbing through the open rangeland of the Okanagon National Forest we nurse Des’ car over seven miles of potholes and boulders to Iron Gate camp at an elevation of 6000’. As there was no reliable water or good camp site we don our packs for the first time and head off for Sunny Pass and our camp for the night - a distance of about four miles. The trail climbs easily through rangeland and old burns until it reaches Clinch Creek at the one mile marker . It then proceeds to rise more steeply until the camp is reached in another three miles just below Sunny Pass. I took us only 2 hrs to reach this camp located in a beautiful meadow and with easily climbed scenic peaks nearby. We quickly set up our tents since it is pass supper time and it would soon be dark. Supper consists of Pea Soup, freezed dried chicken, rice and surprise peas. Weather: sunny and warm, cool night Campsite elevation: 6500’ Distance hiked: 4 miles DAY 2 SUNDAY JULY 25, 1976 SUNNY PASS TO SNOW SHED CAMP Des has us all awake and up by 7AM. The weather is crystal clear and warm. Breakfast is hot beverage, granola, dry milk and raisins. We are packed up and on the trail by 8:30AM . We climb gradually to Sunny Pass where a fanstatic view awaited us. The woman at the ranger station wasn’t kidding Mary when she said we’ll be pleased with what is known as Horseshoe Basin and the Boundary trail. As we continue through the basin more and more views unfolded, more and more blooming alpine meadows open up to us. We awed at the sights still more as we climbed to Louden Lake from where we have clear views back into Canada and back towards Sunny Pass. We are less than a mile from the border - almost due south of Cathedral Lake Provincial Park. A nearby ridge in the basin can be climbed and then hiked to Monuments 103 and 104. We can see Windy Peak which some would climb on the return trip. We continued around ridge after ridge over mostly level terrain until we reach a beautiful alpine tarn where lunch was to include Mary’s homemade fruitcake plus ry-krisp and cheese. Resuming our trek along the ridges we passed several wilderness campsites and finally after going up and around Haig Mountain we reach our destination of Snow Sled Camp near Teapot Dome Peak. The camp is situated in a small, marshy alpine meadow with lots of mosquitoes. Supper -- mushroom soup - freezed dried ground beef - instant potatoes - surprise peas and carrots with instant butterscotch pudding and tea or coffee for beverage. We were soon joined by a scout troop during a 50 mile pack for their badges and a foresome of Canadians from the North Shore Hikers who would share several camps with us before the eight days were over. Elevation of camp 6900’ Distanced hiked: 7 MILES DAY THREE MONDAY JULY 26, 1976 SNOW SHED CAMP TO UPPER CATHEDRAL LAKE Up at 6:30AM - Breakfast - hot chocolate, hot instant oatmeal with fruit. On the trail by 8AM. Weather continues to be sunny and warm. As we are on the east side of the Cascade mountains, the weather in the summer is generally very warm and sunny with thundershowers often appearing in the evenings. My pack doesn’t feel all that heavy nor are my shoulders very sore. I feel like I have already loss several of my excess pounds since the belt is in another hole. Today’s trip would consist of a climb up to Schelitte Pass 6800’ which we reach by 10AM and on to the old Tunsten Mine which provides us with our noon lunch stop. (As the trip continued we actually would take two lunch or rest breaks - one at 11AM and another at 1PM each day. Leaving the mine site we climb uphill to the top of Apex Pass and a hoped for campsite. It took us 50 minutes to climb up to the 7300’ level. It is windy, gusty and some clouds are hovering around but the view to the west is massive: Remmel peak, Amphitheatre ridge, Cathedral Mt where the trail to Cathedral Pass is very visible. Camping here on the ridge posed some problems - very windy, little shade, poor water supply so after a leisurely rest we put the packs back on for the last three miles to Cathedral Pass and Upper Cathedral Lake. The climb was a tiring affair as we have already done about 9 miles. We slowly reach the Pass and its sweeping mountain panoramas - too bad the wind nearly blew us off the pass. We are at 7600” - the highest regular trail point on the trip. Twenty minutes later we rest our packs at Upper Cathedral Lake which is located in a picturesque amphitheatre setting and which provides us with the best water so far on our trip. Supper - another of Des’ masterpieces of thinking - freeze dried shrimp creole with an excellent sauce to go with it, instant pudding and dried strawberries. Our beds were warm thanks to our down or polargard bags. Campsite elevation 7400’ (Note: the Pasayten Wilderness maps has this lake at 6400’ which is wrong. Distance hiked: 11 - 12 miles ( Note: the distances hiked are fairly accurate with the forest service ones - some discrepanies exist with the 101 Hikes in the North Cascades book but this appears to only amount to about 1 mile in total distance so far. DAY FOUR TUESDAY JULY 27, 1976 EXPLORATIONS AROUND THE CATHEDRAL LAKES We awake to a brillant sun and icy frost at 7AM and I help Des start a fire and am glad I have my down jacket with me. Breakfast is freezed dried scrambled eggs which took 45 minutes to prepare with bacon bits and pumpernickel bread with cheese spread. Today is a day of rest and leisure since we have reached the planned westernmost end of our trip. The trail through the Horseshoe basin continues all the way to Ross Lake and is more formally known as the Boundary Trail. We will all do different things today. I hike up the trail for about a mile through more meadows and alpine tarns to a high point which affored more views of the mountains to the west - Remmel - Bald etc. Met the other three on the way back to camp where I cleaned myself and soaked up the sun for several hours before building up the energy to climb part way up Cathedral ridge - dummy me forgot his camera and therefore had to return to camp, get camera, reclimb the ridge to capture the 360’ panorama -- to the west - Mt Baker, Hozameen, Glacier Peak and Flat Top Mt in the Ashnola valley - which brought back memories of my trip last year through the Cascades from Manning to Cathedral Park. To the south - Remmel and Bald Mts. To the east - Windy Peak and Topaz Mt.and finally directly across Amphitheatre Ridge with the green Cathedral Lakes nestled below. Returning to camp I hear the same glowing descriptions from the others who had climbed a nearby ridge and viewed much the same except that they could see Mt Rainer also. Before supper was started, discussion took place regarding the next leg of the trip. The original plan was to drop down into the valleys and then climb up Basin Creek to Topaz Ridge, around Windy Peak and then down through Horseshoe Basin to Iron Gate but Mary and Eve in particular wanted to return via the same route so they could savor the wide open terrain and scenery. It was finally agreed to stick to our original plan which includes the option of getting out at 30 Mile camp in the event of an emergency. By now the North Shore group presence was notable in camp as well as other groups who had arrived here by different trails. ( Note: As mentioned early it is quite feasible to reach this destination from Cathedral Park by just following Ewart Creek up to Cathedral Peak and down to the Lakes or by climbing from valley to ridge and arrive near Lower Cathedral Lake.) Supper: Another gourmet delight - almonds for an appetizer - ground beef, oxtail soup mix - oxo cubes - scallop potatoes - and mixed veggies combined for the main entree and coffee - krisp bars for dessert. Campsite elevation: 7400’ Weather: Sunny and hot Mosquitoes: Working overtime Sunset: Smashing - a golden hue over the ridge and lake DAY FIVE WEDNESDAY JULY 28, 1976 THE TRIP BACK LEADS TO A VALLEY CAMP Up at 7AM - it’s sunny and warm again Breakfast - alpen, dried milk, hot beverage, and raisins. Under clear skies we head for Remmel Lake which was easily reached in about 2 hours and only 4 miles of hiking. ( There was some confusion on trails in this area but stay on the obvious and follow the mark signposts. Remmel Lake is very picturesque and has a good camping area - elevation is 6800’ and is surrounded by Remmel and Bald Mt both of which can be climbed by following ridges to their summits. The trail from Upper Cathedral Lake to Remmel Lake follows meadows and alpine tarns for most of its 4 mile distance. We spotted four deer along this trail today. After a leisurely lunch break we head down the formally marked Chewack River Trail which I would describe as a cattle trail and boring hiking with little in the way of views, water or campsites. We make it to the 4 Mine Jack turnoff at 3PM and decide to seek out campsites. I found one possible site just as another group was taking up residence. They told us of another site two miles further down at Tungsten Creek. We stop there for the night. There are no mosquitoes. Supper must have been so good since I forgot to write down the menu but going by our meal pattern it probably would be a chicken of some sort. Campsite elevation: 4800’ Distance hiked: 11 miles Weather: Changing to stormy DAY SIX THURSDAY JULY 29, 1976 FROM VALLEY CAMP BACK TO HIGH GROUND Arose at the usual time with breakfast consisting of hot chocolate,alpen, raisins, dried milk and we are trailbound by 8:45AM. In about twenty minutes we reach a trail junction where another decision is needed regarding our route. After a few minutes it was agreed to scrap the loop over Topaz and proceed back to the Boundary Trail via the Tungsten Mine trail and camp at Schelitte Pass tonight and then head for Horseshoe Basin and possibly out tomorrow. Here’s a quick but vivid description of our return to the high ground along the Tungsten Mine trail. Mile 0 - Mile 1.5 - Uphill steep about a 1000’ gain and no water Mile 1.5 - Mile 5 - very little gain - in fact drops - follows creek and has some good campsites. Mile 5 - Mile 6 - steep uphill - 1000’ gain - boring and open. Stop at the mine for our lunch break and to regain our breath. Heading our from the mine site we reach the pass and our campsite at 3:30PM. Weather is very stormy and threatening rain for the first time this week. Just as we are about to enjoy our evening Swiss Herbal soup we have to contend with rain and hail stones as well. This shower didn’t last too long and we were able to dry most wet items before bedtime and the next shower. Supper included soup, potato soup mix, scallop potatoes, freezed dried ground beef , chocolate bars. By now our North Shore Hikers friends had arrived so I had to explain our change of plans to satisfy their curiosity. It started to rain again about 8:30PM so we crawled into the sack and hoped ;to stay dry. In fact it rained very little overnight. Campsite elevation: 6800’ Hiked: 9 miles Weather: unsettled and stormy. DAY SEVEN FRIDAY JULY 30, 1976 ONE LAST NIGHT IN HORSESHOE BASIN? While some of us would have preferred to complete the trip today and return to our vehicle it was agreed we would spend one more day in the basin so that some of the surrounding peaks, ridges and meadows could be explored. Weather is socked in and visibility down to 100’ as we arose for breakfast but by the time we have finished our morning alpen/granola mix the weather was starting to clear off. Since we are covering old ground in poorer weather their isn’t a lot to write about today. We reach Horsehoe Basin at 3PM - where to soothe some feelings and tension it was decided to spend the night. The weather has also improved somewhat. No more rain has fallen. Supper consists of tomato soup, freezed dried chicken, catelli noodles, cream of mushroom soup with stewed fruit for dessert. The dark clouds rolled in for the night as we turned in. We assume the North Shore group is around somewhere near Louden Lake judging from their hoots and hollers. Campsite elevation: 7000’ Hiked: 10 miles Weather: Improving DAY EIGHT SATURDAY JULY 31, 1976 A DAY SPENT EXPLORING HORSESHOE BASIN Awoke to dready skies which burned off quickly while we went through the long scrambled eggs ritual again this morning. Today is to be a leisure day in Horseshoe Basin with each of us doing our own thing. Here’s what we did today. 1. Des and Mary take off for Windy Peak . 2. Eve up Goodenough and Armstrong ridges. 3. Dennis stayed in camp to nurse a sore foot and a nearly infectous blister on the other heel. I also seem to have a bit of fever and cold. Is Dennis: 1. ill 2. bored 3. lonely Take your pick My musicial theme today is I’m Down/ Help by the Beatles. Weather becomes mostly sunny by noon. Met and talked with the wilderness ranger about 3PM who reassured me that: 1. the water is safe to drink 2. the trail up Basin creek to Topaz Mt is a sheep trail so our decision to come back up to high ground sounds all that more logical. Des and Mary arrive back around 4:30Pm and are busily finishing off the last of their scotch before starting supper but where is Eve. Supper is green pea soup with ham, freezed dried beef, chilli beans and other assorted leftovers, chocolate biscuits and instant chocolate pudding. My mood became obvious to the others as Eve arrived back from the ridge at 8:30PM after sundown. Turned into bed with foot hurting almost as much as my temper. Didn’t sleep good. There is a great flaming sunset once again and the prospects of a good day tomorrow seem to be in place. Campsite elevation: 7000’ Hiked: 0 Miles today Weather: Improving DAY NINE SUNDAY AUGUST 1, 1976 THE LAST DAY AND OUR HOME JOURNEY Our trip out and the return to civilization starts with an early breakfast because we are taking the longer North Cascades highway route back to Vancouver. The weather is also questionable - will it rain before we reach trailhead We strap on the packs for the last time at 8AM and reach Clinch Creek Mile 4 by 9:30AM. The weather is overcast and Dennis boldly forecasts rain a 1/2 hour after we finish the hike. At Clinch Creek we fill our water bottles for Des’ radiator which acted up on the long rough ride up to Iron Gate Camp. We reach trail head at 10:20AM. It has been raining lightly for the past fifteen minutes -- so much for my prediction. After a short stop at Iron Gate we head down the mountain for an eagerly awaited meal and beer or two which we had at Tonasket in the Okanagon Washington valley. It is still raining outside as we finish our meal and beers. The other three had a reuben special with real dark rye bread while yours truly had Beef Dip which was excellent. The restaurant is called Romar’s - good food, moderate prices, service and eating area. Start the trip through to Winthrop about 1PM and hoped for better weather as we reach the Cascades. Such was not the case as we reached the old western town of Winthrop and then headed for Washington Pass and Marblemount. From the little in views we saw this would be a gorgeous trip in sunny weather. We stopped at the Log Cabin Inn in Marblemount for a coffee - croos the border at 7PM and are home by 8PM. NOTES ON THE TRIP 1. The actual distance backpacked was 56 miles 2. Food preparation fell to des Fletcher 3. Trail information was provided by Mary Roberts 4. Photos taken by Dennis Baher I wish to thank Mother Nature for her slow summer which prevented us from doing our planned trip in the western Cascades and to Mary who through 101 Hikes in the North Cascades first noticed the Horseshoe Basin and Boundary Trail and finally to the information officer at Okanagon Washington who confirmed to Mary that Horseshoe Basin was to place to go. This trip could be shortened or lenghtened easily. One could spend a week in the Horseshoe Basin or Upper Cathedral Lakes area . The meals were excellent which goes goes to prove that with a little bit of ingenuity freeze dried foods can be turned into gourmet delights. DENNIS’ EQUIPMENT LIST General items Clothes* flashlight one pair gym shorts four rolls film two underwear hand towel and soap three pair socks moleskin one sweat shirt mending tape one long sleeve dress shirt needle and thread three t - shirts rain poncho one pair running shoes toque one camera down jacket hiking boots toilet paper Group items carried J cloth 3 man tent and fly nylon rope pint of white gas two clothes pegs food for 6 to 8 meals notebook - 8 to 12 lbs. odometer one shock cord two glad garbage bags * includes clothes worm on the trail.