THE SUMMER OF 1983

LAKE O’HARA EXPLORED

Introduction:

This year’s annual escape from the urban jungle is a backpacking trip to Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park and a cross over onto the Kootenay Rockwall trail in Kootenay National Park and the only real decision to be made was whether we would access the Rockwall from Lake O’Hara or more directly from one of its access points along the Banff-Windermere highway.

DAY ONE MONDAY AUGUST 1, 1983

After having spent a couple of days acclimatizing myself to the fresh air of the Canadian Rockies at Lake Louise I rendevous with Des and Mary at the agreed upon point of the Lake O’Hara trailhead at 11:AM today.

In an effort to control the number of people going into this area all overnight use is restricted - permits are needed several months in advance and while you can walk in most people going to the Lake O”Hara area opt to take the bus into the wilderness campsites. It cost us $2.50 each way and took only twenty minutes.

We set up our camp and then hike around Lake O’Hara on the Lakeshore trail. We pass the unique Veils of Seven Sisters falls and pass several of the trailheads for the alpine routes. The trail and route system in this area is one of the most extensive and oldest in the National Park system.

After completing the circuit of Lake O’Hara, we set out for McArthur Lake via the Alpine meadows, ACC hut, Schafer Lake route going uphill to McArthur Pass which provides an alternate access route to the Kootenay Rockwall trail and through to McArthur Lake. Lake McArthur is a beautiful jewel of a lake, surrounded by the glacier of Mt. Biddle, its bluish color changing with the sunlight. It is one of the prettiest and most serene lakes I have ever visited. After a brief thunder shower we return to camp for one of Des’ treats -- Chicken, veggies and rice.

Just as we finish dinner, the thunder, lightning and rain started and continued the better part of the night. It was quite a sight seeing the novice campers attempting to cook their gourmet meals on the the kitchen shelter stoves. However, because the area is so accessible it attracts many people who aren’t really prepared for back country trials and tribulations.

We have hiked about 6.5 miles today without heavy packs - a change from previous years.

DAY TWO TUESDAY AUGUST 2, 1983

The day dawns dry. It is sunny with cloudy periods and no rain. After a leisurely breakfast we head for Linda Lake where to our surprise people are swimming. Some were au naturel, others clothed. Leaving the lake we climb up tp the Morning Glory lakes. After a bite to eat, we start the steep climb up to Oradray Prospect. From the Oradray views radiate in all directions: Lake O’Hara is far below - as is Cataract Brook and the road out as well as Lake McArthur. We can see many of the areas covered by the other alpine hiking routes. But wait says Mary “ we aren’t finished climbing yet. The Grandview Prospect is even better.” Yes, Mary it was better as we climbed and we climbed and we climbed until Des and Dennis decided enough is enough. Mary proceeds to the top which she shared with the billy goats. We return to the Oradray Prospect via a different route and back to camp via Schafer Lake, the ACC Hut.

We have hiked about seven miles.

Supper tonight is ground beef, scalloped potatoes, onions, mushrooms. The soup is shrimp with a can of shrimp added tp provide that extra flavor. Dessert tonight is chocolate pudding.

After supper a discussion takes place on the Kootenay Rockwall trail and which route we would follow. We then proceed to the lodge to enjoy the sun setting on the peaks and return to camp to be greeted over coffee by two of Mary’s friends from S.F.U. who have done the Rockwall trail.

It is clear and cool as we turn in. No rain tonight.

DAY THREE WEDNESDAY AUGUST 3, 1983

For me a relaxing, resting day. While Mary and Des set off for Oesa Lake and other high points I sort out my pack and dry the sleeping bag as we will be heading out on the early bus tomorrow. This done, I go for a stroll to Mary Lake or Upper Lake O’Hara and then climb up the Big Larches trail to Schafer Lake.

I can see how this trail would be so beautiful in the fall. After this stroll I proceed back to camp to shave and get cleaned up. Then its on to the Lodge for a chocolate bar and pop. I can’t leave the junk food behind.

I have hiked about four miles today. The mosquitoes are pesky tonight - I wonder if another thunder shower is in the works. It wasn’t as it stayed dry all night.

THE KOOTENAY ROCKWALL

DAY FOUR THURSDAY AUGUST 4, 1983

We leave on the 8AM bus and by 10:30AM have finished car shuffling, permit getting, pack restocking, clothes changing and start up the nine mile Helmet Creek trail from the Paint Pots trailhead on the Banff - Windermere Highway.

This is the start of the second phase of this year’s back country adventure. It will entail at four to five day trip along one of the most spectacular high country trails in Kootenay National Park. We are doing the trip from north to south which was choosen because the access while long isn’t as steep as at the south end as well as because Dennis’ isn’t sure if he will have to cut the trip short by a day because of other holiday plans.

It is a fine valley trail - lots of level stretches - two suspension bridges - a grizzly bear caution - frequent stops - one uphill slog and five and one half hours later we arrive at the Helmet Creek backcountry campsite.

While we met no one on the trail, several people were already camped and by nightfall close to all spaces will be filled.

We have hiked nine miles today.

Dinner is chicken stew.

Tomorrow we have two uphill climbs and some great views from talking to people in camp.

DAY FIVE FRIDAY AUGUST 5, 1983

The weather is sunny and warm with only a few clouds and a two minute sprinkle at Limestone Pass.

To best describe today’s trip - it was up a hill - down a hill - up a hill - down a hill. While the hiking was strenuous at times - the pack seems to weigh twice as much as we climb over hill and dale. However, the scenery was everything that is described in all the guide books. The alpine flower show on Limestone, Rockwall and Wolverine Passes and in bewteen are the best we have seen. Took lots of pictures of the Rockwall - us hiking - me hiking - distant Kootenay and Banff Park peaks. Garden after garden of alpine flowers surround us. Mary’s going to describe them for me now.

Indian Paint Brush Red Fleabane Purple

Valerian White Arnica Yellow

Towhead babies Fuzzy Sinecio Small yellow

Felt lousy and tired when we arrived at out camp at Tumbling Creek. Ate some food, then washed up and laid down before supper.

Dinner tonight is a new one - Lamb Stew - while we wonder where the lamb was , the meal was good. We met up with a girl who had hiked through from Lake O’Hara and a gentleman who gave us some tips on Numa Pass.

We have hiked seven miles today. Tomorrow the climb to Tumbling Pass and the drop to Numa Creek.

DAY SIX SATURDAY AUGUST 6, 1983

Weather is sunny and warm - some clouds.

The day started with a one hour climb to Tumbling Pass ( Glacier). There are more alpine flowers and great views in every direction. Since we are going at a slower pace today, I doff the pack and went ridge roaming for an hour and photographed many beds of alpine flowers in harmony with the surrounding views. There are views of the Rockwall and Wolverine Passes - of the distant peaks of Kootenay and Banff parks - ahead lies Numa Pass and the Floe Lake area - the final destination for Des and Mary - This is my last day with them as I have some other holiday plans which make it necessary to leave tomorrow via the Numa Creek trail.

One thing about the Rockwall trail - it has three or four entry and exit points along the Banff - Windermere Highway - all a relatively short distance apart so that if you have to come out early it’s not too far back to your car.

We started to hike through the pass and down until we were ready for the drop to Numa Creek. While Des and Mary stayed behind I started to recall the words of a gentleman we had met along the way “that you would never want to hike up to Tumbling Pass from Numa Crek.”

No wonder - at least twelve switchbacks, many short, some long - a rocky avalanche slopes, unforded rocky creeks, long downhill slop through cow parsnips fieds until Numa camp is reached in an hour. Mary and Des arrive in another hour.

Tomorrow Des and Mary go on to Numa Pass and Floe Lake. I will head out to the car uncertain on Yellowstone pending calls to Vancouver.

DAY SEVEN SUNDAY AUGUST 7, 1983

I hike out the four miles in one and one half hours to the Numa Creek trailhead. Manage to save three miles of road hiking by getting a ride back to the truck at