REPORT AND OBSERVATIONS OF MY TRIP WITH THE SKYLINE HIKERS TO THEIR CAMP #2 AT MOLAR PASS, BANFF NATIONAL PARK FROM MONDAY JULY 16, 1990 TO SATURDAY JULY 21, 1990

The process actually starts the day prior to departure with the dropping off of our duffel and the attending of an information meeting and social at the Banff Fire Hall on Sunday night.

The Skyline Hikers offer five different sessions to the same camp location each year. They rotate their location each year to minimize the damage to fragile alpine environments. Next year's camp will be in the Bryant Creek access area to Mt. Assinibone Park.

Each camp is under the leadership of either a host or hostess who is charge of everything. Assisting them are a chief hike leader, musical director and a medical doctor. In addition, a number of returning members volunteer to help with the leading of the day hikes.

The Skyliners then contract with the Kananasksis Guest Ranch to cater our food and pack in our duffel. Marjorie is the head cook and is assisted by a number of helpers.

This year's camp is located about six miles up the Mosquito Creek watershed from the Icefield’s Highway. The camp is located among trees in a valley about a 1 km from the junction of the North and South Molar Pass trails. These are the only two formal trails in the area. However, several weeks before the camp starts the Chief hike leader and other club executives come into the area and tape routes and objectives that will be offered during the camps. After the last camp, all tapes are removed so that the animals won't eat them and to discourage other people from travelling off the main park trails.

The camp is made up of sixteen large canvass tents capable of sleeping four persons and there is a small pot belly stove and supply of wood in each tent. Sleeping foamies are supplied but you will need to bring your own mattress as well. Primitive privies are scattered throughout the site. There is a tent shaped like a donut that serves as our meeting and evening campfire site. In addition, there is a kitchen, dining, wash up and staff quarters located across a small stream from the main sleeping area. There is a bathing area in the creek below the camp. Our water comes from a pump which filters the water from the creek to kill the germs. The entire camp is surrounded by an electrical fence which is activated at night to keep large animals from entering the camp area. This is a requirement of the Skyliners permit from the Canadian Parks Service.

Meal times are posted and hot water is available for washing in the morning and before supper. Tea/coffee is available prior to meals and hot chocolate and cookies during the evening sing song.

Lunches are bagged and contain either one or two sandwiches, cookies and fruit. Sandwiches are typically either cheese, ham, tuna or peanut butter and jam.

This camp has a full compliment of sixty-four including hostess etc. There are large groups from hiking clubs in Cleveland and the South Jersey crazies as they call themselves. There are thirty-eight new comers and many are under the age of forty. This is a very high number of first timers

Enough about the camp, now my thoughts and the daily doings.
 
 

DAY ONE MONDAY JULY 16, 1990 THE TRIP UP MOSQUITO CREEK TO BASE CAMP.

Well it's here at last - departure time for my first trip with the Skyliners comes with the arrival of the buses to transport us to the trailed. An hour later we don our packs to start the easy six mile walk into the camp. The weather is iffy -- sun, cloud, threatening to rain. We split into three groups for the walk into camp. I'm in the first or fast group led by our trip hostess Elsie James. The trail is muddy from the late arrival of summer and extensive horse use as I reflect on how strange it feels to be walking into the wilderness for six days with only a day pack on my back.

After an hour and one half of easy uphill walking, we stop for lunch beside the creek with views up the valley to some distant peaks. Little did I know that those views would provide two of our hiking trips during the week.

The weather remains inconsistent as we start the last three miles to camp with a light drizzle falling. Mine and other umbrellas start to shoot up and about an after after lunch we spots some white tents ahead of us. We have reached Camp Molar, our home until Saturday.

We meet in the donut for our tent assignments, duffel pick up and await the other hikers who will arrive over the next hour. I am tenting with Gordon Poppy and wife Evelyn and friend John Scott. Our tent is named Egypt after the location of a previous summer camp and is away from the main group of tents and sits on a slight angle. Finding level spots fro temporary camps is nigh impossible.

After all the hikers arrive, sort out their duffel and find their tents, Roy Sidebottom, our chief hiking leader announces a short hike will leave shortly. We are led up the South Molar Pass trail for two or three kms to Disappearing lake which gets its name from the fact its water level evaporates during the summer. We also get our first open views of the area. Bicuspid and South Molar Pass are obvious. So are the open meadow lands and vast vistas.

As we are resting at this lake, we spot a mountain goat high on a lofty ridge above us and a marmot in the rocks near the lake.

Despite a thunder and lightening show last night and some rain today, my duffel is dry.

The first happy hour is attempted at 5:00PM but most people today are getting settled into camp and preparing for the first of our suppers.

Supper is served at 6:00PM each night and tonight's consisted of tomato soup, green veggies, hot green beans, roasted potatoes and pork chops in a mushroom sauce and finally a butterscotch tart for dessert.

Along with the evening sing song and cocoa, the trips for the following day are outlined and the leaders introduced. There are eight hiking options available in the area but only four are usually offered each day and most are repeated throughout the week.

The weather will dictate my choice tomorrow but I will probably do either Bicuspid or Hound's Tooth, both deemed strenuous. There was a glorious sunset on the peaks and it stays light until after 10:00PM

I sleep well and warm unlike the others.
 
 

DAY TWO TUESDAY JULY 17, 1990 THE TRIP TO THE TOP OF THE HOUND'S TOOTH

I am up before the breakfast bell at 7:30AM. Breakfast doesn't vary much each day. It is either oats or creme of wheat and your choice of fried eggs, bacon or sausage and hot cakes. Juice is also provided.

Lunches are given out each morning just prior to departure.

The weather looks good: sunny with cloudy periods, some wind and pleasant temperatures. The departure times are usually staggered around a 9:00AM time frame.

Today I have chosen the Hound's Tooth under the leadership of John Lishman. It involves a twelve mile round trip hike with a 2400’ climb to a 9500’ summit. It is reached by climbing through meadows and over loose rock to the summit.

As the thirteen of us start up the trail we are doing it in a clock-wise loop up towards North Molar Pass, over the Hound's Tooth and out via the South Molar Pass trail. We were the only group to do it that way this week but in fairness to John he hasn't been in the area since the Skyliners were last here six years ago.

We leave the North Molar Pass trail and turn off into a broad meadow land. The flowers are starting to bloom and as we approach Tilly’s Tarn we can see our objective high above us. We finally start the slog up the scree and talus slope until I near the top only to realize that I am away ahead of the others which is a Skyliners NO NO! I return to the fold and follow John's official difficult route to the ridge. There are views everywhere -- South and North Molar Passes -- Bicuspid -- with a walk along a connecting ridge we see-- Dorothy's Lake -- Fish Lakes valley and the Mt. Temple area of Banff Park in the distance.

Just a note about names -- many of these names are unofficial and are given by the Skyliners each time they visit the area. Tilly’s Tarn was the name given to a picturesque tarn in the meadows between the passes and was done so in memory of a long time camp cook who passed away a few years ago.

Our return route would be different as we proceed down the flank of the ridge towards the open meadows above South Molar Pass. More and different views unfold. The flower show is starting to come into full bloom. We reach South Molar Pass and here the meadows are more fertile and wetter as we slowly wind our way down from the Pass. In fact the entire distance of about three miles from the Pass to camp is all meadow. Our only regret is that the trail is still muddy and places. We pass a very scenic and romantic little waterfall before we return to camp in time for a quick wash and rest before happy hour and supper.

Supper is home made soup, salad, peas, boiled potatoes and sliced roast beef in gravy and lot's of it. I couldn't eat all that was put on my plate and skipped dessert.

It's a lovely evening, sunny skies, moderate temperature and a few mosquitoes with a roaring creek in the background.

In the donut tonight -- all thirty-eight of us newcomers are presented with our membership cards and hear about the other hikes in the nightly trip report ritual. I am tired and turn in shortly after cocoa.

While I was warm in my down bag, the others were cold and obtained extra blankets from our ever helpful hostess, Elsie.
 
 

DAY THREE WEDNESDAY JULY 18, 1990  A HIKE TO MOSQUITO LAKE AND PIPESTONE LOOKOUT

 

Today I have chosen the Mosquito Lake/ Pipestone Lookout Trail which is a thirteen mile round trip with a 2000’ gain mostly going up to the Lookout. The trail starts to climb up to the meadows below North Molar Pass and after passing Tilly’s Tarn we branch off to the left and start the ramble over and through the various meadows that lead to Mosquito Lake which sits in a bowl clearly visible as we work upwards towards it. The weather is questionable-- mostly cloudy, with some blue skies but there are very dark and threatening clouds along the ridge above the lake. I'm cold and may stop at the lake which all twenty-eight of us reach in about two hours. Today's leader is the trip master himself, Roy Sidebottom. As we reach the lake, it starts to rain, sleet, hail but I decide to proceed to the lookout which is less ominous looking from the lake than from a distance. Nine people turn back at the Lake. The route to the lookout is a side hill walk over rock and snow to the lake's far end and then a gradual traverse over loose but firm rocks and heather to the ridge. Roy did a masterful job of finding a good route up and even a better one down.

Mosquito Lake from the ridge looks like a beautiful deep blue mountain lake in contrast to its look from it's edge. From the lookout you can see the entire Pipestone Valley - a major horse packing route through the Rockies. The far distance views are hindered by the dark clouds which parted long enough to allow us some sun breaks while we ate our lunches at the lookout ridge. It started to rain lightly before we reached camp at 3:45PM

Evelyn was back early and had a fire going, so it was a pleasure to be able to dry out wet clothes and soggy boots.

There is time for a shave and then some happy hour vodka with orange juice saved from breakfast. Two different groups have their own separate little meetings with snacks, peanuts, cheesies, etc. You are welcome to join either group.

We had our first hiking injury today when Kay Donna Stone slid off a glissading snow bank onto the rocks and scrapped her leg pretty good. Doc Myron got his first patient but it wouldn't be his last.

We have in camp a couple in their late seventies and another woman with a pace maker. The Doc’s wife Elaine also has bad knees. It will be an interesting week for Doc.

Tonight's’ supper is soup de jour -- beef and potatoes with lots of other goodies added. The main course is corn, rice and chicken in a tomato sauce. For the first time I go back for seconds. Dessert is fruit jello and chocolate squares.

Later in the donut, the trip reports are getting zanier and the good natured ribbing between the two US groups is getting more competitive. The happy hours seem to be loosening people up.

Tomorrow, there are two trips of interest to me -- North Molar Pass with an option to Fish Lakes and Little Hector Lake above South Molar Pass.
 
 

DAY FOUR THURSDAY JULY 19, 1990 A NORTH MOLAR PASS TREK WITH A FISH LAKES OPTION

 

I awake with a sore throat, headache and growling stomach and I didn't sleep too well last night. I don't actually want to go all the way to Fish Lakes and are hoping that others will want to stop at the pass. John Lishman is again our hike leader.

The weather is overcast and cool. It may rain. After being cold on the trail yesterday I have brought out the winter gear, poly pro shirt and liner for my jacket.

I start out towards the pass but my legs feel like rubber and I struggle as we head upward pass Tilly’s Tarn and through yet more meadows until the terrain changes dramatically to an eerie landscape of deep gullies and rocky slopes. It is barren and bleak looking in contrast to the lushness of South Molar Pass. It's a steep climb over loose but stable rock and patchy snow to the pass. At the pass, a show of hands indicated that I was the only one who didn't want to go on but after several saw the trip down and back up they changed their minds. Rae Sharpe volunteered to lead us back to camp. There were nine of us in the breakaway group.

We proceeded down off the pass to the first shelter from the elements and have the first of our two lunch breaks. Later as we near Tilly’s Tarn we sport a beautiful little cascading waterfall where we lunched, lazed and looked at the wildflowers. We are in open meadow country and Rae and several others in the group either were or are becoming flower experts. Rae had her flower book with her for those we couldn't identify. Having been in the Rockies alpine meadows before I didn't see too many new ones but did spot a yellow paint brush. I also learned that alpine flowers bloom by colors with whites first and red and blues last. We stroll back into camp about 2:45PM.

With time to spare I take some more pictures around camp. I am now down to my last roll of film. As tomorrow night is skit night, I spend some time thinking of something we can do as a group.

John arrived back and described the journey down to the Fish Lakes lookout. There are people camped at the lakes but it sounds like I didn't miss much. I am feeling tired but warm. The heavy weather gear has kept me dry and warm today.

Supper is -- Chicken and rice soup, salad, cooked cabbage, carrots, macaroni and cheese with freshly cooked ham as the main entree. Dessert was a lemon covered graham wafer.

Re skit night: after supper we adjourn to the tent and discuss our skit. It will be

“Springtime in the Rockies” from an Egyptian viewpoint. Remember we are staying in a tent named after a previous camp location -- Egypt Pass.

On the injury front -- Elsie our hostess has developed a serious knee injury and is confined to camp by Doc Myron. She will be lucky to be able to walk out in two days time.
 
 

DAY FIVE FRIDAY JULY 20, 1990 A TRIP TO VALLEY LOOKOUT AND OUR SKIT NIGHT.

 

Its our last full day in camp. Where has the time gone. I slept better but still have a bit of a cold. Today we have the choice of five trips and I elect to do one called Valley Lookout to a knoll overlooking the camp and Mosquito Creek valley. Roy Sidebottom will be the leader.

There are twenty-five of us who start up the Bicuspid trail through the forest for one half hour when tapes indicate its time to branch off to the left. This climb was fairly steep and reminded me of many of my coastal trips.

Once off the main trail we follow the lay of the land over and around various meadows and creek beds until we near a knoll where some side hill trekking brings us to the lowest summit on this ridge. There are exceptional views all around us. It is a little over two hours from camp. We have hiked two and one half miles and climbed about 1800’. But we aren't finish climbing for above us some two hundred feet is the high point on the ridge which will be our lunch and rest stop. From here we can see the entire Mosquito Creek basin, an unnamed valley to the north, Bicuspid above us, North and South Molar Pass with Tilly’s Tarn in the middle in the far horizon and below us the orange and white tops of our camp.

This was a great trip to end our official list of hikes as it showed us so much of the country that we had travelled. We lazed for over an hour while George and Joe T videotaped the views and Gordon P tried to emulated a billy goat in his pursuit of alpine flower photography. Several group pictures were taken. The weather is clearing.

The trip down avoids a scree slope and somehow Roy managed to traverse the ridges and still pick up the tapes which led us back to the main trail and camp. My feet are dry for the first time this week

Supper on the final night is always something special. We get the royal treatment with all the trimmings. Soup, some cold veggies, baked potatoes, baked beans and baron of beef cut to your satisfaction by Kevin Stanton of the Kananasksis Ranch who rides in for this traditional final night supper. Even dessert is special --- cake and trimmed icing.

After dinner we rehearse our skit. We recheck the words to the song and get my costume ready. As we are in Egypt I will be playing Abdul Baheri, Minister of Tourism and Personal Designate of the President of Egypt who wants to see first hand what springtime in the Rockies is all about. Evelyn does the commentary and preps the audience to ensure I get a favourite impression. My costume consists of a multicoloured towel held on with flagging tape and wrapped around a brown sheet. The people seem to be impressed. The skit ends when Gordon and John run among the people with shirts with SAP on them. Remember that sap is the last sign that spring has arrived.

We honor George Muscat of the South Jersey crazies with a sixty-fifth birthday song and Carol and Matthew Fleming who recently celebrated their fifth wedding anniversary.

At the happy hour earlier John L brought out a case of cold beer and offer them to willing takers. It was a strange taste especially after surviving the taste of vodka and water.

That's all for tonight -- tomorrow - the pack up and trip out.
 
 

DAY SIX SATURDAY JULY 21, 1990 THE PACK UP AND TRIP OUT TO TRAIL HEAD

 

I am up and packed by 7:30M. Breakfast is later today to give more time to get ready. After breakfast, we watch the cowhands weigh and carefully load the bags onto the back of the horses some of whom showed their displeasure with the whole process. Each mount can take up to six pieces of duffel and will make several trips up and down the mountain.

The weather is clear and once the sun rises above the mountains it becomes very warm. A short hike is offered but I decline as do many others.

At 11:00AM, the first of four groups head out. This includes our hostess with the bad knee, the older couple, the woman with the pacemaker and others that Doc wants to leave first. The Doc will be one of eight who goes out last including me. John L is again our leader.

At our lunch break at the wilderness camp at the half way point we catch up to the group in front of us. John still has a few beers left so I share one of them.

The trail has dried out considerably over the past week despite the horse traffic.

We reach trail head at 2:15PM ahead of the first group. It had taken only two and one half hours to complete the six miles and that was doggin’ it.

Elsie was carried the last little distance by Jim Totten and a large round of applause greeted her arrived at the buses.

The buses were waiting and loaded our duffel as the horses safely got all the luggage down the mountain.

We arrived in Banff at 4:00PM. I grabbed a quick bite to eat and headed for home.

Thus ended my first Skyliners experience and on the following page I will share some thought of this camp and what I might do differently on my next camp.
 
 

The Skyliner Hikers are a well run organization with a good core of volunteers who see that these camps are a success.

FOOD: Better than I expected - lot's of variety and plenty of it for the active appetite. Lacking milk and cocoa for those who don't drink tea or coffee.

HIKES: The scenery is great-- the flowers were close to full bloom and there's lots of varied open terrain, steep trails and easy trails. Good experienced leaders who know how to gauge the abilities of the group they are leading. Roy Sidebottom is a character-- always joking about how tough and steep a trail is when in fact the reverse would often be the norm. John Lishman was all business, less of a character but a true veteran. I didn't hike with Elsie or Kathy but their personalities indicate that they would be fun to be on the trail with.

PEOPLE: This is always the most unpredictable part of these types of camps. This group was friendly and interesting to talk to given their lack of knowledge about Canada and vice versa. It is best to bring a friend the first time so you have someone to talk familiar issues with.

WEATHER: For the most part it was okay. The previous week was very hot and for open ridge hiking you want cooler weather.

HAPPY HOURS: There are many here who enjoy a drink before dinner and many tents had their own happy hours. As my tent partners were non drinkers I didn't feel it was proper to drink in front of them even though they stated it didn't matter.

WOULD I GO AGAIN: YES but I would take along some things that I didn't this time like more warm clothes -- beer -- pop -- chocolate bars.
 

COMPLIED BY THE URBAN TREKKER FROM NOTES OF THE TRIP AND UPDATED FOR THIS WEB PAGE ON JUNE 5, 1999