REFLECTIONS OF 1996 SKYLINERS CAMP

WEEK 4, MOLAR PASS, BANFF PARK

AUGUST 5 TO 10, 1996

When this year’s Skyline Hikers brochure arrived in late January , I didn’t hestitate to quickly return it with my deposit for I wanted to return to Molar Pass for the following reasons:

1) Great choice of hikes in the area.

2) Alpine meadows galore

3) Fond memories from my first Skyline experience in 1990.

The only real decision was which week to attend. While I attended week two back in 1990 I have decided to attend week four this year. Len B, past president of the Skyline Hikers and Chief Hike Leader has always been enjoyable to work with in the past and as I will be leading day hikes Len is always easy when it comes to scheduling trips etc.

Week 4 or Camp 4 as it is more correctly called is usually one of the more lively camps as it has a large number of returnees.

Looking over my notes from six years ago I have added more clothing and will bring beer instead of volka and have added treats like chocolate bars and candy.

While the venue has changed for dropping off duffel and attending the Sunday night briefing, the remainder of the format has been consistent for many years and won’t be repeated here except to note that most hike leaders are now C.P.R. certified as a result of an incident on the trail last year.

DAY ONE MONDAY AUGUST 5, 1996

DESTINATION: BASE CAMP, MOLAR PASS

DISTANCE: 7KM

ELEVATION GAIN: 800’

RATING: EASY

LEADER: CAMP HOSTESS VIRGINIA K

As the trip to camp is only 7kms with an elevation gain of 800’ our pace will be slow with long lunch breaks as the Skyliners prefer that people don’t arrive in camp much before 2:00PM.

At noon we stop for lunch at a creek crossing a little over the half way point. The weather is still dry but overcast and it could rain at any time.

At 12:30PM we resume our hiking and just over an hour later we see the tents and camp that will be our home for the next week.

The trail is muddy from some weekend rain and extensive horse use by both the Skyliners and other authorized outfitters who use the Molar Pass trails to access the vast wilderness areas of Banff Park particularily the Fish Lakes, Pipestone and Red Deer River valleys.

The camp is located in the same place as six years ago. Parks Canada obviously would rather have an alienated site visited every five or six years rather than create new sites in the same area.

As we reach camp and search out our duffel it begins to rain lightly and would instensify later in the day and overnight.

In camp you can keep fairly dry as the tents are canvass, waterproof and with pot belly stoves plus the dining hall can be used in wet weather for socializing.

I have been assigned to a tent named Skoki after a previous Skyliners camp location many years ago. I will be sharing it with Peter Gfrom Pickering, Ontario and with Adam H from Calgary who is on the Skyliners Council and who is reputed to be a bit of a fun loving, good natured character as the week will prove.

At 4:30PM there is a small informal happy hour outside our tent area. As our tent site is located on a fairly level area near the creek this area has been used by the other camps as the formal meeting place for happy hour. Joining in the happy hour were Ben D, Ray W, and Gord C from an adjoining tent along with Adam and myself. While I have brought beer with me and the usual ration is two per day I elect not to have any as I am cold - all bundled up in four layers of clothing. I guess I am still feeling the lingering effects of my northern Canadian cold of a few weeks ago.

Supper is at 6:15PM and the menu is as follows : home made veggie soup, chicken pieces, rice, corn, salad and dessert.

At 7:30PM I attend the first of my nightly trip planning meetings. As I have been to this area before and have led Skyliners hikes in the past I am expected to lead trips throughout the week. This has an advantage in that you usually get to see the area that you want to see and can pace it according to its rating.

I have decided to lead a trip to Dorothy’s Lake and return via the South Molar Pass trail - about a 10km stroll with 1000’ elevation gain.

I have selected this area for three reasons:

1) lots of alpine flowers which should be in bloom

2) it easy to return to camp if the weather gets real nasty.

3) it’s a loop trip that provides an overview of the hiking options for the week.

At 8:00Pm I attend the donut gathering and receive our official welcome from Virginia K and hear chief hike leader Len B outline the trip options for tomorrow.

As a rule it takes the hikers a day or two to pick up which hikes or areas that they may want to do or see.

At 9:30PM I return to my tent, write this report and turn in for the night.

DAY TWO TUESDAY AUGUST 6, 1996

DESTINATION: DORTHY’S LAKE

DISTANCE: 8 TO 10KM

ELEVATION GAIN: 1050”

RATING: EASY TO MODERATE

LEADER: DENNIS B

Had a good night’s sleep but feel sluggish as I eat breakfast of oats, fried eggs, sausages etc.

At 9:30AM a total of seven hikers set out under my leadership and I am assisted by Ben D - we have traded places and would do so throughout the week.

The group works it way up the main Molar trail for one km until it’s splits - we tun left and start up the North Molar Pass trail branch - we will return via the right branch - the South Molar Pass trail. We are trekking through a sea of mud and wildflowers under overcast skies and a chilly wind until we break out into meadows about 1km above the trail junction. Here we stop to gaze at the flowers and say out loud how beautiful this place must be in sunny weather.

Once you enter the meadows the terrain is open. There are no marked routes except the main trail and many of the names given are Skyliners names that you won’t find on any topo map. We have a number of options as to how to get to our destination. We will continue along the main trail until we reach Tilly’s Tarn - a small body of water located in the middle of this alpine plateau - then climb the knoll and continue southward until Dorthy’s Lake is reached. The terrain isn’t flat - it’s actually a large area of hills, knolls, interspered with alpine meadows, meandering streams and waterfalls. As we reach the high point on the knoll separating Tilly’s Tarn and Dorthy’s Lake we get an open ended view of the various features that makes this such a popular area.

We have views of North and South Molar Passes - Pipestone Lookout - Biscupid - Hound’s Tooth - we are able to spot groups that are attempting some of these trips.

We lunch for only a half an hour as it is cold, damp and very windy on the knoll. We then proceed to the lake and follow the outlet creek from the lake down a gentle cascading waterfall and meadows to the South Molar Pass trail.

The weather is showing signs of improvement - as predicted the wind is blowing in some clearing skies and while still threatening rain it would be our last need for rain wear for the week.

The scramble - gentle as it is - down Dorothy’s outlet is better described as a rock garden with an array of blooming wildflowers including columbine where one particular patch provided many good photo ops.

At 2:30PM our day is over as we arrive back in camp just as the Pipestone Lookout group came in - we have hiked about 10kms on this semi - loop trail.

Despite the weather, the happy hour drew about forty participants which is too bad as I was trying to catch a nap but gave up on the idea and downed two of my beers. Despite the improving weahter I still have on four layers of clothing and don’t fell all that chipper.

Supper consists of chicken soup, salad, noodles, green beans, pork pieces in a sauce.

In the donut as is custom:

1) All first timers ( only 16 in this camp) are presented with their membership cards - you must complete one hike in camp before your membership is considered valid.

2) Trip reports - Marg K from Sherwood Park, Alberta presented ours - you have poetic license on these trip reports which are usually given by newcomers - in some cases the reports are more stimulating than the skits.

3) South Molar Pass and Lake is being offered by someone else tomorrow so Ben and I will offer it Thursday.

4) I will probably do a repeat of today’s trip tomorrow which is dubbed Molar Meadows walkabout with Carolyn T. Carol is an alpine flower source and serious amatuer photographer. I select this trip as I am tired and sore and don’t want to be wasted for my Thursday trip. This year I haven’t been hiking in advance of camp - only biking - and I am feeling it.

I turn in early and are warm in my new sleeping bag.

While we have a stove we have opted to help converse wood and are only lighting the fire for a short time in the morning for some warmth before arising for the day.

DAY THREE WEDNESDAY AUGUST 7, 1996

DESTINATION: MOLAR MEADOWS

DISTANCE: 8 TO 10 KM

ELEVATION GAIN: 1050’

RATING: EASY TO MODERATE

LEADER: CAROLYNN T

I awake to clearing, breezy and cool weather. I do indeed do the nature walk, photo op trip to Molar meadows - primarily the area I visited yesterday but as this is a vast tableland you could stroll for several days and not cross paths.

As I head out in the dry weather the first thing that is noticeable is that the trails are already starting to dry out - a trend that would continue throughout the week.

Carolynn takes us to the high point before Tilly’s Tarn where we are on our own for the next couple of hours to roam the meadows, knolls or lakes of the area.

There are sixteen of us on this journey and I now decide to head for the high point of the knoll where the views will be at their best. The area is drier underfoot and with fewer bugs because of the open, windy conditions. The clearing trend has created some great blue skies which provide many spectacular mountain and meadow photo ops.

I am using some of my free time to bring this diary up to date and will start reading a novel about “sharks” a little later.

As the countryside is open and I am up high I can see Carolynn lazing in the sun lower down in the meadow. I settle into a wind protected cluster of trees, eat my lunch, read the book and talk with three others who have chosen the same area to relax.

While the weather is much warmer the wind is still causing me to bundle up so around 12:30PM I move with the others to explore the knoll above Tilly’s Tarn where a number of quality photos are taken by each of us of each other.

I will end up taking a full roll of film on flowers, meadows etc before returning to camp by 3:30PM and another well attended happy hour.

Supper is soup, fresh veggies, carrots, potatoes and beef chuncks done in a mushroom sauce with a custard for dessert.

Tomorrow I will lead a trip to South Molar Lake - Ben will be the assistant hike leader and juding by the trip report from today’s group it should be a good day.

I turn in at 9:30PM but don’t feel tired - must be the beer from happy hour and I do indeed toss and turn all night while listening to Peter’s not lean but mean snore machine.

DAY FOUR THURSDAY AUGUST 8, 1996

DESTINATION: SOUT MOLAR LAKE

DISTANCE: 13 KM RETURN

ELEVATION GAIN: 1300’

RATING: MEDIUM

LEADER: DENNIS B

Up twice during the night and didn’t sleep well at all - it’s cold outside but my new bag is nice and warm and Peter faithfully gets the fire going providing us with about forty-five minutes of warmth before rising for breakfast.

At 9:05AM - Ben and I lead eleven others our of camp and up the South Molar Pass trail. It’s already getting warm and the trails are getting drier as we slowly work our way up towards the pass - there are many photo stops as the views of mountain, meadows and flowers are spectacular.

At 10:45AM - we start the last km stretch up a steepening traverse to the pass. It’s cool on the trail here as the sun hasn’t yet hit this side of the pass.

At 11:05AM - exactly two hours from camp we break out into pass and spend the next ten minutes taking photos of each other and the surrounding views. I beleive I am the only one in this group to have been at South Molar Pass in 1990 as it was used as our return route from a Hound’s Tooth excursion.

After a brief rest stop - four elect to stay , rest, explore the pass and do their own thing the remaining nine set off under my guidance up the knoll to the left of the pass in search of South Molar Lake which lies hidden below a rock wall a short distance ahead of us.

After about fifteen minutes of uphill wanderings the high point of the knoll is reached and more views unfold. We are on the access route for the Hound’s Tooth and across the valley we can see an unnamed lake sitting on a ledge below one of the many peaks of Mt Hector. We would learn later that above this lake sits Wee Hector Lake which a group would explore tomorrow.

We have clear views of Molar Mt and down Molar Creek as it heads for the Pipestone River and down to Lake Louise and the Bow River. Don Watts suggests from the topo map that we are looking at Richardson Mt and Merlin Ridge - part of the broad area making up the Temple/ Skoki region near Lake Louise.

Just a brief note on access to South Molar Pass - there are a number of ways to access the lake - some suggest stay on the main park trail until you see the rock wall and then just head up the knoll to the lake. This is our return route - I chose the higher option because there is less climbing and more varied terrain .

Continuing along the ridges, meadows and a creek gully or two provide us with a continuous view of the rock wall below which lies our destination - South Molar Lake.

In five minutes, the nine of us are overlooking a very greenish lake. After a fifteen minute lunch and photo session it’s time to start the gradual traverse down the ridge through flowery meadows until we reach the main South Molar Pass trail which we then follow two scenic kms back uphill to the pass and the remainder of the group.

It has taken us one hour and fifteen minutes to reach the lake and only fifty minutes to retrun to the pass.

We take another short rest break before heading down the pass with Ben in the lead all the while admiring the views of the distant Dolomite peaks and flowers and arrive back in camp at 3:30PM

It has been a great day - everyone seems to be happy with the day’s outing but that is also one of the benifits of hiking in clear, sunny and warm conditions.

My hope today was to get cleaned up but I’m hot and sun burnt - ears , nose, face that I feel like doing nothing. I must keep reminding myself that I am on holidays. I do drop my feet into the creek and I do swear they steamed. It’s also hot in camp with little breeze and lots of mosquitoes.

Happy hour once again atracts a large crowd - I have my two beers and then rest before supper . Supper consists of onion soup, fresh veggies, corn/peas combo, two pastas, ham and dessert was upside down cake.

As tomorrow is our last full day in camp I was planning to lead a leisurely stroll to Disappearing or Hidden Lake and search out the old Skyliners camp location. I adjourned to our trip meting to find out that Heather Campbell is leading a trip to the same area and I will be the assistant hike leader.

I’m tired and turn in at 9:30PM

DAY FIVE FRIDAY AUGUST 9, 1996

DESTINATION: DISAPPEARING OR HIDDEN LAKE

DISTANCE: 5 TO 7 KM ROUND TRIP

ELEVATION GAIN: MINIMAL

RATING: EASY

LEADER: HEATHER C

Our last full day in camp!

I awake at 6:45AM to a warm tent as Peter was up early and started the fire. It’s clear and cold outside but another hot day is forecast. I proceed to shave and wash up and feel much better as a result.

Breakfast is the usual fare and not very good - while most of our meals have been up to the usual high Skyliners standards the breakfasts have fallen well below that standard - a point that has not gone unnoticed by the camp leadership this week.

Our depature time turned out to be 10:30AM but it’s only a short trip - perhaps two kms only to our destination and it only takes one half hour to reach the faint trail which branches off the main South Molar Pass trail and in another five minutes we are standing in the old Skyliners camp at Hidden Lake and what a great site it must have been.

A brief description of the area - flat - dry - very flowery - great open views of the Dolomite range - South Molar pass and finally Biscupid where eighty - three year old Ray Williston is leading a group up its rocky open summit. We would track their progress throughout the day.

During a leisurely roam through the old campsite we found the old ridge poles that were stashed for further use. The Skyliners would like to retrun to this site but both a lack of a reliable water source in summer and more importantly Parks Canada concern for low impact camping and site damage makes it very improbable that they would ever let another site within the Molar Pass drainage be alienated.

The seven of us under Header’s leadership slowly work our way through the meadows and a tremendous rockfall off of Mt. Hector to a grassy, rockfall area by a very small body of water which is the summer remains of Disappearing or Hidden Lake. A walk along the shoreline son reveals that the water actually goes underground only to emerge again near the old campsite and thus the name Disappearing Lake is quite appropriate. NOTE: When I attended Molar in 1990 at Camp 2 the Lake was much larger so this year’s hot weather and later camp date have made their mark on the lake’s water level.

This is our objective for the day if there was ever a real one in the first place and we now have the better part of the two hours to do as we please. I spend it updating this diary, exploring the meadows and creek nearby, eating my lunch, sunning myself, admiring the views, reading a book, watching the group on Biscupid, and finally reflecting under the hot sun and smell of alpine flowers upon the week I have spent in camp and the new and old friends that I have met and the satisfaction of meeting the challenge of leading hikes once again for the Skyline Hikers.

We arrive back in camp by 3:30PM giving us lots of time to rest before happy hour which was so well attended that if all of us were lined up at one till at the Banff liquor store it would have taken several hours to process all the beer, wine and spirits in camp.

Befire I knew it was time for our roast beef dinner and skit night presentation. Adam was going to do a brief skit around the Biscupid group and Peter and I played a small part in the three minute spoof.

Then it’s off to bed as am I tired.

DAY SIX SATURDAY AUGUST 10, 1996

DESTINATION: TRAILHEAD

DISTANCE: 7KM

ELEVATION LOSS: 800’

RATING: EASY

LEADER: BEN D

One change this year from previous practice - usually we have to be up early to get our duffel ready for the wranglers to load onto the horses for the trip out. This year because of new restrictions regarding having horses in camp overnight and it also being only a short distance - about one hour for the horses - meant an 8:30AM duffel call.

Breakfast the last day gave us the choice of the regular fare or the option of having one of my favorites - french toast - which I thought was over done. Another disappointing effort from this year’s kitchen crew.

I’m talking one of the later leaving groups out of camp around 11:00AM - it’s nice and slow - in fact it takes us four hours to reach trailhead which includes a long one and one quarter hour lunch break about two kms from trailhead.

Unlike in 1990 no one had to be carried the last distance to the trailhead and in fact I don’t beleive the Doc had any more than the usual number of problems associated with a group of sixty -five or so hikers ranging in age from teenagers to eighty three.

Some of the horses pass us on the way out but we still arrive at trailhead in time to see our duffel unloaded. Given that our trailhead is a campsite and information rest stop on the Icefields Highway it didn’t take long for a group of sightseers to merge upon the unloading area wondering what all the commotion was all about and we were only two happy to tell them about the Skyline Hikers and what our week in the Rockies at Molar Pass was all about.

The buses arrive between 3 and 3:30PM and we are back in Banff an hour later.

Happy to see that my truck is okay. It’s parked at the train station - after a few goodbyes I hit the road and stop for the night at Yard Creek campsite near Sicamous and arrive home early Sunday morning.

This ends another week with the Skyline Hikers and guess what -- Molar Pass is such a great area I will probably go again in 2002 or whenever.

I have dispensed with the usual final reflections this year as I think the report itself should provide all the necessary answers to this glorious week at Molar Pass with the Skyline Hikers.