OWL LAKE CAMP #3

JULY 25 TO JULY 30, 1994

PRECAMP THOUGHTS:

This will be my fourth Skyline Hikers summer camp and there are a number of changes worth noting concerning this year’s camp.

1) There is a new Banff location for dropping off of our duffel and pre camp social on Sunday night. It’s the YWCA building which is convenient since a number of the hikers usually stay at the Y and many don’t have transportation once they arrive in Banff. It’s nice not to have to lug your duffel all over town.

2) I will be attending Camp #3 this year -- first time with this group.

3) A new area for me -- Owl Lake is located in the south west corner of Banff Park near Marvel Pass and the B.C. border. It has the same access as the Bryant Creek -- Assiniboine trail. It will be a long 19km and 800’ elevation gain trek into our camp located about 1km beyond Owl Lake and 2Km below Marvel Pass.

4) A new responsibility -- well sort of- I have been asked to help lead the day hikes -- this is usually asked of people who have attended previous camps or who have considerable hiking leadership skills.

5) A new group of characters to entertain us for the week. There is only one or two in this group who have been on other camps that I have attended.

6) A real concern this year is weather. For once, it has been very hot and dry so we are cautioned by the doctor at the pre-hike social to take it easy on the trail and to carry and drink lot’s of water. More hot and dry weather is forecast for the coming week.

DAY ONE: MONDAY JULY 25, 1994

TRAILHEAD LOCATION: MT SHARK PARKING LOT - PETER LOUGHEED PARK

DESTINATION: SKYLINE HIKERS BASE CAMP -- OWL LAKE

BANFF PARK

DISTANCE TO CAMP: 19KM ( 12 MILES)

ELEVATION GAIN: 800’

HIKING TIME: 5 - 7 HOURS

RATING: MODERATE AND LONG

LEADER : DOUG AND JOAN AMUNDSON

The first day starts off with an early wake up call, a quick bite to eat, the dropping off of your vehicle at the storage lot and awaiting for the bus for the trip to trailhead.

Our route this year is a repeat of our 1991 camp as we travel through Canmore, up the Whitman Gap and down the dusty slow Smith Dorrien trail to our trailhead at the Mt. Shark parking lot located in Kananaskis Country not far from the entrance to Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.

Trailhead is reached at 9:45AM and fifteen minutes later the first of four groups each departing about fifteen minutes apart leaves for camp. As is my custom I opt to be part of the first group which will include the camp hostess and music director. As is practice the camp doctor will be in the last group to arrive as he will treat any hikers who have problems along the way. Later in the evening we will learn that he was kept busy with sore feet and other problems related to both the heat and the distance hiked.

A brief trail description from Mt Shark would be as follows: Follow roads through Mt Shark x/c ski area downhill past Watridge Lake to the Banff park boundary and the Bryant Creek trail which is a well constructed multi-use trail with lots of mountain bike traffic as this is the main access route to Mt. Assiniboine.

By noon, the half way point at Big Springs camp provides a welcomed lunch break. After a leisurely forty-five minute rest and the arrival of the other groups we depart and one half hour later reach the Owl Lake turnoff from the Bryant Creek trail. We are now about six kms to camp. We proceed downhill to cross Bryant creek on a sturdy bridge and then start a roller coaster trek up and down through a mixture of dry meadows and forest cover until an hour from the junction we reach the end of Owl Lake.Before us is a spectacular vista of an alpine lake and the shining snow cap peaks of Mt Byng and Marvel Pass, an area that would be visited more than once during the week.

Working our way slowly along the rocky shoreline of Owl Lake and then back through some forest cover a few yahoos are heard as the first of our group has spotted our camp situated in a broad meadow a short distance ahead and by 3:30PM camp had been reached.

The hike of twelve miles had taken five and one half hours including breaks and I was feeling quite good but was disappointed that my duffel hadn’t arrived so that I could start to cool my evening refreshments. While I had come into camp fairly refreshed despite the heat and sun some of the others arriving during the next hour had a miserable trip and were of some concern to the camp doctor.

This year six individuals came into camp a little differently - arriving at nearby Cabin Lake by helicopter and then walking down through Marvel Pass to camp. Since helicopters are not allowed to land in Banff Park and Cabin Lake is in B.C. this was the only way that several of the camp participants could make it into camp. While a family of four came in as a present the other two were long time members of the Skyliners who because of age and medical conditions would have had difficulty with today’s long walk.

Once the last of the hikers reached camp our tents are assigned. This year I am sharing “Tonquin” with Jack W of Summerland who has attended a number of camps.

The camp is located on a fairly level grassy meadow about a km above Owl Lake with a reliable water source in Owl Creek. We have a vista of views - down the valley towards Bryant Creek - Mt Byng above us and Marvel Pass and Peak on the right. The dining hall and donut are located away from the sleeping areas. It is dry and grassy enough in camp that several of us are able to walk around in bare feet much of our leisure time.

Duffel arrives at 5:15PM and a short time before supper a twenty minute thunder shower occurs which would be our only rain for the entire week.

Supper tonite is different from previous years. It consists of Tomato/beef soup with corn, rice and cod fillets for the main course.

At 7:30PM, the nightly hike leaders meeting is held. Tomorrow I will be leading an easy trip to Cabin Lake located in Marvel Pass which will provide alpine flowers, majestic vistas and a cold water lake for swimming.

After the hike meeting it’s off to the donut for the evening routine.

It is a warm night when we leave the donut and head to our tents for socializing or sleep. Jack and I both like to turn in early and rise early. There is no need for a fire.

DAY TWO TUESDAY JULY 26, 1994

DESTINATION: CABIN LAKE FLOWER, RAMBLE, SWIM

DISTANCE: 6KM ROUND TRIP

ELEVATION GAIN: 800FT.

HIKING TIME: 1 TO 2 HOURS ONE WAY

RATING: EASY

LEADER: DENNIS BAHER

It is cool when you arise but the sun soon warms things up and by departure time at 10AM it is sunny and hot. While most trips left an hour earlier we get a later start because it will be a fairly easy trip to a popular swimming hole called Cabin Lake located a mile above the camp in the Marvel Pass area.

When I said easy hike I was referring to the total distance for the day as it is a steep climb of 800’ in a little over a mile to the summmit of Marvel Pass and then a drop down to Cabin Lake.

We took until noon to reach the summit as there are many photo opts to look at - back down on the camp, across the Owl valley to Mt Byng where a group of hardy hikers are seen climbing up to the lower scree summits of this peak, and finally to count the vast variety of alpine flowers that are in bloom all along the trail. Six of the us ten are shutterbugs so it is not hard to explain so many stops.

After a rest stop at the pass and a short downhill walk to the lake, everyone has two hours to do as they please.

There is an interesting history behind the name Cabin Lake and the confusion that existed for many years over whether the lake was in Banff Park or in B.C. and in fact the existing topo maps incorrectly shows it being in the Park. The confusion exists over the outflow stream from the lake. All the lakes on the Marvel Pass plateau below Cabin Lake flow down into the Marvel/Bryant Creek drainage and later into the Spray/Bow system and for years everyone assumed that the outflow creek from Cabin Lake joined the others on the plateau except for one explorer who realized that it flows down into the Columbia River system in B.C. and started to build a cabin on the lake only to be stopped by Park officials who for years maintained the lake was part of Banff Park. The cabin was never completed and today serves as a reminder of this controversy and also explains why helicopters use Cabin Lake as a drop off point for fishers and others who want to explore the Marvel Pass area or admire the spectacular views of Assinibione.

The group spent their two hour break eating lunch, sunning, swimming including the entire Seabrook family from Prince George and generally enjoying the plentiful views.

I spent most of my time roaming the ridges around the lake that provided panoramic views of the Assiniboine range, visited several small mountain tarns, saw the rocky scree route up Currie Pass and observed a number of small blooming meadows with a host of colorful wild flowers and viewed the lakes on the plateau that form part of the Bryant Creek drainage. These views combined with those from my Bryant Creek Skyliners trip in 1991 means that I have now seen the entire area that makes up Assiniboine/Bryant Creek. I have come full circle and will see even more of the area over the next couple of days.

At 2PM we start the downward trip home and arrive back an hour later. I am hot and thirsty after a day in the sun. The beer is nice and cold and goes down real well. The other groups arrive back at various times with the Mt Byng group being the last at 5:15PM.

This year as at Molar and Tombstone the groups will be able to get back to camp in time for hot water and happy hour as most of the distances are not that great.

The trail taken today is a continuation of the Parks trail that we hiked in on yesterday that continues beyond Marvel Pass and Cabin Lake and down the inter lakes drainage to Marvel Lake where it splits. One route climbs up to Wonder Pass and then on to Assiniboine while the other route continues down Marvel Lake to the junction with the Bryant Creek/Assiniboine trail.

Supper tonight is another new one this year. Fish noodle soup, green beans, coleslaw salad, scallop potatoes, and beef chunks - a very well prepared meal.

The weather is still very warm and while there are some threatening clouds around no rain falls. The better weather also means that many of us are eating our dinner outside in the shade of the dining tent.

The hike leaders meeting is held and tomorrow I will be leading a group up to Bluebird Lake - a Skyliners name given to an unnamed lake located on a ridge above the camp on a shoulder of Mt. Byng.

DAY THREE WEDNESDAY JULY 27, 1994

DESTINATION: BLUEBIRD LAKE AND BEYOND

DISTANCE: 5KM TO LAKE ONE WAY

ELEVATION GAIN: 1200’

RATING: MODERATE - ONE TOUGH CLIMB

LEADER: DENNIS BAHER

Today I lead a moderate hike to a place called Bluebird Lake, located in a valley above the camp. Previous trip reports indicate it is a good trip up a well taped trail to an alpine lake with spectacular views and flowering meadows. The reports are true for the most part - there are two steep pitches to climb that some poeple didn’t enjoy going up and hated even more coming down but in between the two rough spots there are meadows and a good forest walk.

From camp you follow the main trail down about a km to a point just before the lake where you turn right and trudge through a bad windfall to a makeshift log crossing of Owl Creek. Then follow the creek downstream a short distance before the first of the climbs gets under way in earnest up a rocky, meadowy rock face who’s only saving grace is that there are several viewpoints providing excellent views of Owl Lake and the Bryant Creek valley. The trail then levels out onto the ridge and becomes more forested. From here there are views back towards camp and of Mt. Byng and Marvel Pass. The trail then winds through forest and meadows, crosses a creek and reaches a waterfall where the second and longest climb of the day takes place. While steep it doesn’t have the drop off of the first climb and as the crest was approached behind us the first good views of Assiniboine began to appear. After a climb over a few boulders Bluebird Lake is reached.

It had taken the ten of us three hours to reach the lake but once again there are six shutterbugs snapping pictures and enjoying the countless views and flower shows.

The lake itself is not all that appealing - shallow and split in two by low water and rock falls off the surrounding peak but the area around the lake is where the explorer can have a field day.

It is only noon and the downhill trek will take less time than the ascent so we have two hours to do our own thing.

While some lazed by the lake - some walked the nearby meadows - Harry P and June S climbed a ridge of Mt Turner - I set off to explore the knolls above the lake. This is my type of hiking - open ridge walking - you choose the route and destination until you reach the high point with its views down the Spray River valley.

Unfortunately, while the weather is warm and sunny and a good wind is blowing through the knoll, there is a lot of smoke haze from forest fires in B.C. which is obscuring the views down this valley.

The views back towards camp are nothing short of spectacular - Assiniboine, Gloria, Marvel Peak are all shining in their majestic setting. The terrain that I am wandering through is open and varying between wet and dry meadows with different wild flowers which each provide different background shots of Assiniboine.

I complete the ridge roaming by a different set of meadows and follow a small rambling creek back to our rest spot where I finish my lunch and relax before the 2PM departure back to camp. Just as we reach the lake’s outlet, Harry and June return and spoke of excellent views down into a hidden valleys and an even greater panorama of peaks and valleys.

The return trip was uneventful but slow as the group took its time going down the steep stretches and by 4:10PM had arrived back in camp to unexpected shower. It seems the sun and heat had gotten to the masses and as people returned to camp were well wetted down by others who had already returned along with camp staff. It was welcomed!

It is now the midway point of the week and the weather has been the best of any of my Skyliners trips. I certainly haven’t needed all those warm clothes packed in my duffel.

My day pack is heavy because of the need to cary extra water, first aid kit and rain gear just in case a shower occurs while on the trail.

The happy hours are more spread out among the various tent sites because of the good weather. There are a number of fellow beer drinkers in camp. I guess the horses will be happy that the duffel will be lighter on the trip out.

Another new dinner selection that I didn’t enoy all that much - beef soup, green beans, pasta noodles and chicken goulash.

Tomorrow I will lead a trek into the upper meadows and headwaters of Owl Creek. It is a trip possibility that I noticed while up in Marvel Pass and upon checking the log book that had been done by a group the previous week and that looked quite interesting.

Off to the donut and then to bed.

DAY FOUR THURSDAY JULY 28, 1994

DESTINATION: UPPER OWL CREEK MEADOWS

DISTANCE: 3KM ONE WAY

ELEVATION GAIN: 500’

HIKING TIME: ONE TO TWO HOURS

RATING: EASY TO MODERATE - ONE STIFF CLIMB

LEADER: DENNIS BAHER

It is sunny and hot as seven of us head out at 9:15AM for our ramble to the upper meadows of Owl Creek. The area is a flower garden and contains waterfall and rock caves.

The first part is straight foward as you follow the trail towards Marvel Pass until you reach the Mt. Byng turnoff which you follow through some meadows until Owl Creek is reached. Reports indicate to stay on the right side and work your way upstream until you come to a waterfall. This provides our only real challenge and a real challenge for some. That was how to get above the waterfall. At first we climbed up through light forest - no set trail - just made our way upward until a small scree slope was met which I scrambled up without any difficulty but others weren’t too sure of their footing and elected to stay and wait for our return in about an hour.

Once up the scree you enter another meadow and the headwaters of Owl Creek. It is truly a gem - the rock wall of Marvel Pass with waterfalls cascading down - caves in the rock - flowery meadows among the wandering infant Owl Creek.

Another branch of Owl Creek flows down from a shoulder of Mt.Byng. Our ramblings lead us to find the tapes for the alternate Byng shoulder trail coming down from Marvel Pass which Len A and myself explore for a short distance but which was difficult going.

The four of us enjoyed our visit to this upper meadow, its scenery, waterfalls, caves and flowers.

We return, pickup the other three and wander through the meadows and forest, cross Owl Crek on a log and enter another borad meadow where we soon find the tapes for the main Byng Shoulder route as it treaded its way through this meadow.

We lunched and flower explored this lower meadow before starting back to camp which we reached at 1:30PM. This lower meadow would make an excellent half day trip or evening stroll.

Supper was the traditional ham and macaroni.

Tomorrow I will be hiking to Assiniboine Lookout but won’t have to lead.

DAY FIVE FRIDAY JULY 29, 1994

DESTINATION: ASSINIBOINE LOOKOUT/LOWER MARVEL PEAK

DISTANCE: 6KM ONE WAY

ELEVATION GAIN: UP TO 1600’

RATING: EASY TO MODERATE

LEADER: DOUG AMUNDSEN

The good news is that I will not have to lead a trip today, just help Doug as the end person on our trek to Assiniboine Lookout and Lower Marvel Peak.

It only took us an hour to reach Cabin Lake where two will laze in the sun while the remainder of us climb up through a series of small meadows and rocky knolls until you can see your destination in the distance. The terrain is quite open here and provides many spin off routes for those interested in exploring further.

An hour after leaving the lake we arrive at our destination - a rocky outcrop high above Marvel Lake that provides the best views of Assiniboine seen all week and the other peaks in the area. There is a smoke haze hanging over the area as a result of a forest fire burning near Invermere B.C.

In addition to the spectacular views of Assiniboine you get a great view of Wonder Pass where you can clearly see the trail snaking its way up to the Pass from Marvel Lake.

Far below are the green lakes of Gloria, Terrapin and Marvel whose waters will eventually flow all the way to the Arctic Ocean. Looking down Marvel Lake towards its outlet I can imagine the trip some of the Skyliners had back in 1991 when groups did an Marvel Lake/Wonder Pass/Assiniboine Pass loop all in one long day.

Another group are attempting today a new trip and that is a straight up scramble from camp to a rocky ridge of Marvel Pass. We can see the group on the ridge from our rest stop at Assinibone Lookout.

At 1PM, a splinter group of four including me leaves to explore the Lower Marvel Peak area which can be reached by breaking away from the taped Lookout route and scrambling up open meadows and rocky slopes to a lookout.

Here we split again for while two decide to reach for the top of Lower Marvel up a steep rocky scree slope, Jack and I are content with views from lower down. While roaming the open terrain we spot the taped route and follow it back to Cabin Lake.

Jack and I then set off to follow the tapes which are supposed to lead you from Cabin Lake to the Byng Shoulder trail part of which I saw yesterday during our upper Owl Creek sortee but whoever taped the route down from the pass to the meadows must have done it in snow for it was a straight down ramble through an avalanche chute before reaching the meadow. It only took us ten minutes of torture to do this stretch and based on what I wrote in the log book it is unlikely anyone else will do this route.

By 3PM Jack and I are back in camp and most of the other grouping are returning early as it is skit night and many want to rehearse or just rest from the heat.

While there have been a number of menu changes this year there is no way that the Friday night traditional roast beef dinner could be changed without a real mutiny. As usual it was excellently prepared by Slyvia and her crew and carved and served by Kevin Stanton our catering chief and head wrangler. Kevin is married to one of Bud Brewster’s daughters and runs the Kananaskis Guest Ranch

Supper is no sooner over than it’s time for the skit night presentations and this year’s were every bit as zany as previous years.

I am scheduled to lead one of the faster groups out tomorrow.

DAY SIX SATURDAY JULY 30, 1994

DESTINATION:TRAILHEAD AT MT SHARK

DISTANCE:19KM

ELEVATION CHANGE: -800’

HIKING TIME: 4 TO 6 HOURS

RATING: EASY BUT LONG

LEADER: DENNIS/DOUG

As usual an early wake up is needed in order to get the horses up and running with our duffel. The average horse will carry six bags weighing about two hundred pounds.

I am scheduled to lead out a group at 9:25AM but with only a handful still in camp I wait for Doug and Joan to finish their final camp inspection amd leave with them at 9:40AM

It takes us only two hours to reach our lunch stop at Big Springs - all the groups are here - we have already caught up to them which indicates that we have set a fast pace. There are also a large numbers of mountain bikers on the trail which provides us with a realism that that we will soon be back in civilization.

At 1PM I set off for the final 9kms to trailhead and Doug has allowed all of us to do the final leg at our own pace and as I am feeling good and so is another hiker - Brian from Ottawa. We complete the final leg in ninety minutes and have a full hour wait for the bus.

Three of the group took the helicopter out to Canmore - led by 85 yr old Charlie Mc, Dr Bob H and Ester who had all kinds of health problems on the trip in and who was advised by the doctor to take the easy way out.

By 4:45PM the bus is back in Banff and camp is over for another year. After a twenty minute wait at the towing compound for the owner to come from a call and unlock the yard I then drop Catherine Mc from Cambridge Ont. off at Y for a shower while I claim our duffel at the train station. I would then give her a ride to the Calgary airport as I am now heading across the prairies to Thunder Bay and then down through the Northern states before returning back to Vancouver in a couple of weeks

FINAL REFLECTIONS ON CAMP THREE, OWL LAKES

It was a wonderful week of hiking in T -shirts and shorts - of walking through the grassy campsite in bare feet - of only needing a light jacket in the evening and early morning hours - of leading hikes and being personally thanked by the Chief Hike leader for doing an excellent job of route finding - of being able to enjoy such majestic panoramas with such a great group of people - of being able to eat your supper outside in the cool of the shade of the dining tent rather than the suffiness of the inside of the tent - of sharing beer and jokes with the fishermen about their attempts at catching our supper - of enjoying the company and trip reports of eight year old Andrew S from Prince George or eighty - five year old Charlie Mc of Bassano, Alberta who was attending his twenty - sixth camp - and finally of the day hikes that were short yet challenging enough for all to enjoy.

In all I have hiked forty - seven miles during the week and climbed and lost about 5000’ in elevation.

Owl Lake is next scheduled for the year 2000 - I sure hope that I will be able to return to this beautiful part of Banff Park