Report on Skyline Hikers Camp #4, Tombstone

Lakes area, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park,

Kananaskis Country, August 3 to 9, 1992

Opening remarks:

It felt good to awaken from a night’s sleep in a proper bed

for the first time in five weeks. My arrival in Banff and the motel

room stay in preparation for Skyliner Camp #4 was the final step

in a summer holiday which included a four week trip to Alaska.

This will be my third year attending these camps and in

honor of the sixty anniversary of the Skyline Hikers, a brand new

location had been selected, the Tombstone Lakes areas of Peter

Lougheed Provincial Park.

DAY ONE MONDAY AUGUST 3, 1992

THE TRIP INTO TOMBSTONE LAKES CAMP

I rise early, pack my day pack, have breakfast and after leaving

my truck at Timberline towing in Banff I wait for the chartered bus

for the one and one half drive down the Kananaskis highway to our

trailhead at Elbow Pass. The weather has gone from showers in Banff

to warm sunshine at trailhead. After picking up my lunch, we separate

into groups paced on our desired hiking pace for the two and one half

hour hike into our base camp. I choose the fastest group which today

is slow as it is less than five miles into camp over an old fire road which

climbs steeply to Elbow Lake and descends gradually down the Big

Elbow Creek valley. Our camp is just pass a junction with the Sheep

Creek fire road.

Under the leadership of our camp hostess, Yvonne M, eight

of us start up the trail to Elbow Lake at 10:45AM. It is a stiff 1.3 Km

climb and five hundred feet in elevation gain to Elbow Lake. While

the views were wonderful on the drive down, a new vista of peaks

unfolds that will provide many hiking memories for the week. I see

large craggy peaks, long valleys, swiftly flowing streams and

flowering meadows. After negotiating a less than ideal crossing at

the outlet of Elbow Lake, we continue along the trail which is a multi-purpose forest access road,closed to motorized traffic that is

heavily used by mountain bikers, horses and hikers.

Yvonne has found a nice spot for our lunch stop at the half

way mark into camp. Sheltered from the wind, swifty flowing Elbow

creek is nearby. From this spot Elpoca Mt is to the left, Tombstone

Mt straight ahead and the massive of Mt. Rae to the right. Big

Elbow Creek is flowing through a small gulley and the first glimpse

of Elpoca “Piper Creek” Creek valley is visible. This valley is

reputed to be one of the best trips in this area of the Rockies.

After our lunch break and the arrival of the second group it

is time to forge on but a sight is unfolding on the trail. This year

because of the easier terrain and short distance the Kananaskis

Guest Ranch, who provide our camp services, is using an old

fashioned horse drawn carts to bring our duffel and supplies into

camp. It is a better system because things don’t get tossed around

and less horses do less damage to the trails etc. These horses are

used to provide guests at Lake Louise with their winter sleigh rides.

The terrain has changed from a narrow valley into more open

country with partly forested ridges as the group reaches the junction

with the unmarked “Piper Creek trail and shortly after that the Sheep

River trail ( actually another old fire road.) The suspense is building

for our camp is reportedly just ahead and unlike last year hidden in

the forest. Our group arrives at the same time as the horses at 2PM.

Yvonne does her required job and is first into camp so as to be able

to officially welcome each of us. The camp is located about half a

kilometer off the main trail. The camp appears to be drier than the

last couple of locations, a fact that would be tested several times

during the week when thundershowers would hit the camp.

Yvonne gives each of us our tent assignments. This year I’m

in Pulsillata - Baker at the top of the yellow brick road. This year

because the camp is more spread out there are a number of trails

leading to the tents and each trail has been assigned a color. Due to

cancellations I am sharing with only one gent while some of the women

are packed five to a tent. My tent mate name is Tony W, a gung ho hiker from Saskatoon who will do every difficult trip before the week is

over.

After reaching camp there is the sound of distant thunder and a

brief rain and hail storm ensues. One of the wranglers says that most

days will be suuny and warm with afternoon showers followed by evening

clearing. This was a good weather forecast.

First day camp thoughts!

1) People are busy getting hot water for bathing or cooling their

favorite beverage in the creek or having their afternoon tea before

adjouring for happy hour.

2) The views were good as I shot a half roll of film and had an

excellent trip in.

3) It being the end of a holiday weekend there is plenty

of activity on the trail as users are completing their bike or hike trips

in the area. Our camp is upstream from a backcountry campsite and

only two kilometers from good fishing lakes.

4) This year’s participants range in age from twelve to eighty-two.

5) Supper was another Sylvia delite -- chicken in a tomato soup, rice,

corn, with beef soup for a starter and lemon tarts for dessert.

6) I enjoy a couple of beers during happy hour - got into a crib game,

had a good hand and won. These second game wasn’t finished due to dinner.

Later in the donut we will be officially welcomed to camp and the

various leaders will be introduced, the hikes for the week outlined in

detail and tomorrow’s trips announced.

They are:

1) Piper Creek

2) Tombstone Lakes

3) Rae Lake

4) Cougar Mt

5) Rae Creek/Burns Creek crossover

This last trip is a gruelling twenty-seven km loop with a steep

nineteen foot climb up, over and down a couple of scree slopes.

Tony W will be leading this trip and will leave at 8:00AM and don’t expect to be back until after 6PM

I will decide in the morning which trip I will undertake but it won’t

be Tony’s.

DAY TWO TUESDAY AUGUST 4, 1992

A TOMBSTONE LAKE ADVENTURE

It was a very good day!

I’m up at 6:30AM and shave at 7:00AM when the hot water becomes

available. This year I have promised myself not to look or feel grubby the

entire week.

It is cool and clear as I start the stove in the tent to warm up and dry

things out a little.

The sun is rising in the valley and is glowing off the three peaks that

dominate, namely: Elpoca, Tombstone and Rae.

Judging by the numbers a large group is doing the Elpoca “Piper”

Creek trip so I elect to do Tombstone Lakes - a seven to ten km loop to

two alpine lakes situated on a ridge above the camp. The lower lake is

reputed to have some good fishing and the knoll above the upper Lake

some excellent wild flowers. It promises to be a good trip.

The trail to the lakes is a continuation of the Big Elbow road to

past the wilderness campsite where a left turn starts a climb up a forested

trail that moderates as it nears the first lake and levels out as it meanders through a field of flowers. Our progress has slowed as out come the

books and cameras as many of today’s seventeen hikers are flower

afficiondos.

Shortly after the junction a two minute side trip takes us down to

Lower Tombstone Lake but fate was awaiting us when the remainder of

the group reached the lake. One of the gentlemen on the trip wasn’t

feeling well and had become sick and Yvonne our day leader and two

others would take him back to camp for medical attention. It turned to

be nothing worst than a camp flu and the man’s age but it is better to be

safe than sorry in the wilderness. With Yvonne’s departure, Edna took

over and asked me to be the end person.

We proceed around the shoreline of the lower lake and up a

rocky knoll to Upper Tombstone Lake which lies in a bowl about

fifty feet higher than its lower namesake. From the knoll one gets a

close up view of the long massif that makes up Tombstone Mt. It’s

lunch time and time to explore the shoreline and upper reaches of the

lake where there is a profusion of wildflowers at the bottom of an

avalanche chute.

After lunch a discussion takes place about our return route.

There is suppose to be a path that would take us up a divide and

down to the Little Elbow fire road and back to camp but without

Yvonne’s expertise nobody was able to find it at the upper lake.

I suggest we follow the trail we came in on as the map shows it

connecting with the Little Elbow fire road further up the valley.

This proved correct when we passed the missed path as the

trail steepens. It was a stiff climb up the knoll separating Tombstone

Lakes from the Little Elbow trail. The trail is lined with wildflowers

as the group works their way to a high point where we rest, enjoy

the views and the flowers. It’s a chance for us to get group photos

or get down on our hands and knees to capture that award winning

Skyline Hikers photograph.

From this rest spot there is a clear view of Banded Shoulder

and the Little Elbow valley. We continue along this trail until

Skyliners tape indicates a right turn onto a better trail that gently

climbs through a vast sea of alpine flowers until reaching a cutline

and the descent to the Little Elbow trail.

From a view point on the trail one gets a good indication of

how long and large the massif of Tombstone Mt. is and why the

area is so popular.

It is interesting to speculate what this area would look like if

the Alberta government had not protected this vast region with some

recreational legislation.

We meet a couple of guys on mountain bikes who are doing

the popular forty kms Big and Little Elbow trail loop in one day.

It is 2:00PM but thickening clouds and distant thunder hurry

us downhill to the trail junction where we meet two more bikers

doing the same trip in the reverse direction.

Back in camp early gave me the opportunity to rest and await

the rain which amounted to only a few drops. Unlike last year it

seems to shower and then clear off each night just like the wrangler

suggested it would.

Today’s happy hour attracted more than twenty people in

front of chief hike leader, Len B’s tent. With all the pretzels,

chips, snacks it is a wonder that anyone has room for dinner.

Tomorrow I will do Rae Lake and Sleeping Dinosaur - a two

humped knoll above Rae Lake that looks easy, inviting and scenic.

One thing to keep in mind about trails in this area is that unlike

previous Skyliner camps where a lot of information about trails and

routes as been passed on from one camp to another, the situation is

different this year as it is the first time in the area for the club. While

there is a fair amount of route information available not all of it is

accurate but because the terrain is fairly open and the surrounding

peaks provide a good landmark there is little likelihood of any one

getting seriously loss.

The long Rae Creek/ Burns Creek crossover grouped

returned at 6:30PM. It is worthwhile and will be repeated on

Friday. One person who completed the trip was eighty year old

Ray W, the former Socred minister in the W.A.C.

government who spent the entire week doing every difficult and

stiff climb.

My tent mate and trip leader answered when asked: "Ray was on my heels the entire time and didn’t seem to be out

of breathe”. Perhaps someone should tell Ray that after twenty

years of being out of politics it is no longer necessary to run for

your life.

DAY THREE WEDNESDAY AUGUST 5, 1992

A WACKY WEATHER DAY AND

RAE/SHEEP LAKES VISITED

A most challenging day! Challenging in that I lead my first

Skyline trip and challenging because of weather conditions.When

a large number of Skyliners indicated that they wish to do the Rae

Lake/Sleeping Dinosaur trip it was decided to split into two groups

leaving a few minutes apart and with slightly different destinations.

At least that was the plan but as the saying goes the best laid plans

can often go astray.

I have eight hikers and Corine has ten. The weather would

become a factor as the wind was howling one half hour after

leaving camp and as we climbed up the Sheep River trail heavy

black clouds were visible up the Piper creek valley and are moving

rapidly our way. The thunder warned us of the pending rain. Out

comes the rain gear and within minutes the hail, rain, thunder,

lightning, everything you would expect from a rapidly moving

mountain storm started to drench down on us.

At the turnoff where you leave the Sheep River trail and start

upwards towards Rae Lake, the groups agreed to turn back in one

hour if the storm had not abated. While we are no more than a

couple of kms from camp the rain and cooler temperatures could

cause hypothermia if we are not careful.

The group worked its way uphill over one knoll then another

and reached Rae Lake before 11:00AM as the icy sleet drenched our

clothes and a howling wind pierced through to chill our skin. I’m

getting cold and damp as I had left my good rain gear back at camp

and was trying to make do with a less waterproof jacket, shorts and

sweats. I would live to regret and write about it. Finding shelter among

the trees and after a brief coffee break our group decides to proceed

around the lake and if the weather doesn’t improve by the time we reach

the outlet we would forego the Sleeping Dinosaur and head out which is

exactly what we did.

Despite the weather it is easy to see why the Rae Lake area is so

beautiful and accessible. The terrain around the lake is open and there

are good views across to Sheep Lakes/Cougar Mt. and down the

Elbow River valley.

My feet are cold! I have on my toque, gloves! I’m cold! Some of

the group seem to be perfectly dry and warm while others are in a

similiar situation as myself.

By the time we return to the fire road it has stopped raining and the

sky was brightening. It is only 11:30AM -- far too early to return to camp.

I suggest and the others concur that we head across valley to the Sheep

Lakes for lunch.

Sheep Lakes is reached via a short 1km climb from the Rae Lake

trail junction along an old fire road. It is a wet meadowy area containing a

couple of shallow lakes that was the original choice for this year’s camp

but a lack of dependable summer water supply led us to our present site.

Until the 1960’s you could drive these roads all through this area

and its still shows scars of previous abuse.

Reaching the lakes by noon, the weather has improved as blue sky

is starting to appear over Elpoca Mt. where only a couple of hours ago

the ominous black clouds were evident. This improvement provides

an opportunity to get out of wet clothes and put on dry ones. The

temperature is rising and by 1PM the sun is shining brightly.

From our vantage point you get good views of Mt Rae., the

Sheep River valley, across to Tombstone and see the ridge climbed

yesterday to Tombstone Lakes. One sees the Little Elbow road cutting

down through the forested ridge separating Tombstone and Banded

Shoulder. A group of hikers are on top of Banded Shoulder and we

marvel that they weren’t blown off the ridge during the storm.

A little after 1PM we start back. An hour later the fire is going

as Tony had returned early. I change to dry clothes and start to dry out

the wet ones. I’m cold, lay down and cat nap.

It’s tea time -- I actually have some to get warmed up -- will my

boots be dry for tomorrow is a good question but I had the foresight

to bring a second pair in addition to my camp running shoes.

Despite the rainy conditions the camp area is drier and seems to

drain well unlike the last two years. One of the early casualties of the

weather was the Piper Creek hikers who turned back early and were in

camp by 10:30AM. This created a silver lining for with the improving

weather they decided to go for a stroll down the Big Elbow trail to a

knoll and a good view point. This would make an excellent departure

day or easy Friday outing.

It is approaching donut and trip report time but first some

mid-trip observations.

1) The happy hour was held again outside the trip leaders tent

and twenty showed up

2) A number of participants seem to like the shorter nature of

this years hikes as compared to last year at Assiniboine.

3) Some confusion has existed in finding our destinations. As

mentioned earlier this is a new area and many of the trails are historic

route rather than maintained trails.

4) A private outfitter has taken down some of the tape markings

on the Sheep Ridge/ Cougar Mt route -- guess they don’t want a few

hikers crossing public lands that they consider their own private

preserve.

5) The food is good as usual and I am trying to eat less.

6) Despite the downpour today the weather has been better than

last year at Assiniboine

DAY FOUR THURSDAY AUGUST 6, 1992

A TRIP UP ELPOCA “PIPER” CREEK TO

A FLOWER GARDEN AND MAJESTIC VIEWS

It was a wonderful day.

While not feeling very energetic despite a good night’s sleep

in a warm sleeping bag and dry tent I decide to do Elpoca “Piper

Creek. Three different groups are going up this very beautiful valley

and I will join the one led by Len B our chief hike leader and

current President of the Skyline Hikers.

We leave camp and head back along our inbound route a short

distance until the tapes indicating our route across the Big Elbow creek

valley are reached. Here we turn and follow the tapes through the creek

valley and where the route becomes a proper trail Len asks me to take

the lead. Seems I mentioned the fact that I had over twenty years of

leading hikes down on the coast so he must have thought it a good idea

to break me in an easy one.

We are now starting our climb up a couple of small ridges and

makeshift stream crossings as we turn into the Piper Creek drainage.

There are good views back of Mt Rae and the Sheep Lakes as well as

the Big Elbow valley back towards Elbow Lake. The trail winds its way

along a shoulder of Tombstone Mt and climbs closer to Piper Creek

through forested terrain with occassional meadows and limited views.

Soon the roar of Piper Creek can be heard and a small waterfall

is observed as the trail opens into meadows. This is our first stop.

The Piper Creek valley lies between the two dominant peaks in

the area - Tombstone and Elpoca. The weather is sunny but windy.

The views are getting better as we gain altitude and start to open into an

alpine meadowland. Our pace is slow as the group stops frequently to

photograph the flowers.

While some are hiking in shorts I have on a long sleeve shirt and a

heavy jacket. My pack wieghs a ton but after yesterday’s weather every

one is carrying additional clothing. I have a cold and can feel it as we

work our way up valley. We stop for a lunch break on a hillside teaming

with wild flowers, mostly fleabane and deep red Indian brush.

Fifteen minutes later we reach the start of Piper Creek meadows -

the first group is far ahead climbing up to Piper Pass and the third group

arrives as we proceed up another knoll to more open views. We have

now reached our destination of open meadowland.

There is a majestic panorama of flowering alpine meadows,

beautiful meandering creeks and small cascading waterfalls along

with the nearly impassable rock massifs of Tombstone and Elpoca.

Whovever stated that this is the best trip in this part of the Rockies

was making an understatement. The first group is traversing up a

narrow path to the summit of Piper Pass which from a distance

looks difficult but upon closer innspection is quite climbable to

hikers with good footwear, stamina and scree slope experience.

I have and hour and one half to explore. Some opt to sun

in among the flowers, others embark on flower counting sortees

and a couple of us seek out hidden tarns below the two peaks. One

doesn’t need a map and compass to explore this area for it is open

terrain. I have lot’s of film left thanks to yesterday monsoon.

I work my way up the valley through open alpine country,

around and over little creeks and through wet and dry alpine meadows.

As I draw closer to my destination of a small tarn I watch the intrepid

ones reach the summit of the scree slope and one half of my brain is

kicking itself for not climbing up while the other half is warning me of

my cold and aching body. Despite the warmth of the sun and having

on a heavy woolen shirt the wind is chilling me. I reach my destination

at 1PM, take some pictures and then head across valley to meet the

descending hikers and see a marmot but he succeeds in hiding before

any photos are taken.

As I start back to my lunch stop, five sheep in a small meadow

are spotted and photographed.

All goods things must end at and at 2PM we start back to camp.

Thoughts on today’s activities.

1) Arrive back around 4PM in time for hot water, shave and another

happy hour outside Len’s tent. A light rain falls and continues through

to donut time but it doesn’t appear to be deterring people from doing

their thing.

2) I’m not feeling too chipper as I ate only about half of my

suupper but with the stove going the tent is nice and dry and warm.

3) THIS IS THE PREMIER HIKE IN THE REGION!

4) Time to hear the nightly trip report and tomorrow’s agenda.

Tomorrow is our last full day in camp and the day of the

traditional roast beef dinner and also skit night.

DAY FIVE FIRDAY AUGUST 7,1992

A STROLL DOWN THE BIG ELBOW!

It wasn’t the greatest of days!

My cold and the nature of the weather help me have a

miserable day. The wind howled through the tent all night and I

got little sleep. The weather looks okay but I’m cold and don’t

feel like hiking. Some are staying in camp today and I am debating

whether to join them or not but a group has decided to go for an

leisurely stroll down the Big Elbow valley.

I join them and seven of us are on our way but we soon split

as I and three others want to climb a small, flowery knoll up to a

ridge and then back down via an old skid road and rejoin the others

at a trail junction. Just as we returned to camp it started to rain in

earnest for the next six hours.

I get the fire going, crawl into the sleping bag before adjourning

to the dining hall where our last happy hour is held due to the weather

conditions.

All groups save for Burns Creek are back early and Catherine

and Tony found the trail that leads all the way to Cougar Mt that the

tapes had been removed from.

After our traditional Friday night roast beef dinner we await the

start of skit and just as it gets underway it stops raining.

Skits ranged from a Canada 125 presentation and the singing

of O Canada -- to how George Pocatera and his kissing mule brought

about the name Tombstone Lake and the name KAN AN ASS KISS --

to magic tricks -- to how to use a Skyliners camp biffy.

DAY SIX SATURDAY AUGUST 8, 1992

THE RETURN TO CIVILIZATION!

This year our duffel didn’t have to be ready until after

breakfast as the bus won’t pick us up until 2PM and its only

2hrs out to trailhead. I go out with a group leaving at 10:45AM

while a more ambitious group is going to Tombstone Lakes first

and then out.

The weather is clear but strong winds are in our faces which

isn’t helping my cold. The tops of the surroundings peaks have a

fresh skiff of snow and a realization that summer us almost over in

the mountains.

At 10:45AM I strap on the pack and start to reflect on this

year’s trip and camp.

1) The signifiance of the new location to the future if the club --

the old and news friends that I have met -- the new trails -- meadows --

peaks and views that I have hiked, admired, climbed -- a sense of being

at peace with nature.

2) The challenges of the foul weather on the Rae Lake trip --

the striking meadows above Tombstone Lakes and of Piper Creek --

and surviving those challenges.

3) The return walk along the Big Elbow as it flows through

wandering meadows, canyons, rapids and more meadows. The

wind remains strong as we near Elbow Lake but instead of trying to

cross on our weak log crossing we stay on the south side and stop

for lunch, final rest etc at the wilderness campsite at Elbow Lake.

It is only 1PM and fifteen minutes to the bus which I reached

at 1:40PM and the bus arrives just as the hikers from the Tombstone

Lakes ramble arrive like clockwork at 2PM.

Back in Banff at 3:45PM I reclaim my truck, do some banking,

say good bye to the group at the Rose and Thorn and head for Yard

Creek campsite before returning home tomorrow.

By 2PM Sunday I am home after six weeks, 11,500Km of travel

through two provinces, one territory, one US state, three time zones,

three border crossings ( four if you count Stewart/Hyder) and one

ferry ride

SOME FINAL REFLECTIONS

From the outset I knew that this camp would be different

for several reasons:

1) I hadn’t been to a Skyliners Camp #4 before

2) Tombstone Lakes is a new area so we were poineers in

a way -- blazing trails and trying to co-exist in an area where there

is plenty of potential for conflict with other wilderness users.

3) The ability to choose short, medium or long hikes and

having several loop trips available was a positive.

4) The weather while having it’s moment of fury was generally

better and the camp drier than last year.

5) The camp been in a forested area out of site to other recreation

users should appease those who thought that last year’s camp was too

out in the open.

6) There are almost twice as many women as men again this

year.

7) The happy hours were more lively and better attended than my

previous two camps in part because people were back in camp in time

for hot water and a wash before the happy hour began and in part

because of the large number of regulars who return each year to Camp

#4.

That’s all for this year.